Travelling in Australia

How is the best way to travel in Australia? Do you want to see the most in the least amount of time? Do you want to have complete control over what you see?

Australia is such a large country that, unless you have unlimited time, it will be necessary to determine exactly what it is you want to see and then decide how you want to do it before you plan anything else.

I took a tour for my first trip to Australia. Not realizing the true immensity of the country, I realize now that for me, it was a good way to travel. To make seeing this vast country easier, we took three flights within Australia, (Melbourne to Alice springs, Ayers Rock to Cairns and from Cairns to Sydney), and bussed between Alice Springs and Ayers Rock. To get a better idea of the distance between places, each flight took us an average of three hours. Translated into driving, this would be a lot of time spent in a car.

Friends of mine took six months to travel around Australia in a camper van. Without flying to various areas as we did, a long visit was necessary. They set themselves an itinerary relating to time spent in each place and a list of what they actually wanted to see. Having already spent about eight weeks in the Down Under on a previous trip, they knew exactly where they wanted to go. Although my trip was only three weeks, I felt we did see a lot in the time allotted us. However, it was rushed and if I decided to go back, I would definitely opt for a longer period of time. You can't possibly see a country that size in a short period of time and properly do it justice.

I may choose the tour option again but specifically pick a tour that went to the places I particularly want to see and do my own add-ons, if necessary. My real preference would be the travel van option so as to be in control of my own destinations.

After having been to Australia, I would definitely choose to go to Cairns and Sydney again and see more of what those cities offered. And I'd like to go to Brisbane which we didn't get to at all. In Brisbane there is the Alma Park Zoo with Australian and exotic animals located on forty acres, South Park Parklands on the banks of the Brisbane River, Queensland Conservatorium and the Botanic garden.

Also on my list would be Tasmania. Separated from the mainland of Australia by the Bass Strait, it is 364 km long and 306 km wide. It has rare rock formations, beautiful waterfalls, a rainforest and with magnificent views and scenery, it would definitely be a must-see. There are also five convict heritage sites and an opportunity to see the tasmanian devil, as well as native Australian animals in nature and up close.

Fraser Island would also be one of my destination spots. At 122 km long, it is a sand island with long stretches of white beaches, specifically Seventy-Five Mile Beach; sparkling lakes, especially Lake McKenzie, a fresh water lake; ancient rainforests, sand cliffs, wetlands, Maheno Wreck and Sandy Cape Lighthouse. It is reportedly the world's largest sand island.

Also, the Gold Coast would be included with its beaches, rainforest, Lamington National Park, Surfer's paradise, Mt. Warning National Park, Sea World and the rainforest hinterland. It is a gateway to whale watching and island hopping and is only 94 km south of Brisbane.

Whitsunday Islands would also be on the list. It includes 74 tropical islands, of various sizes, many of which are deserted. The islands are the tips of mountains fringed with coral and they are approximately 900 km north of Brisbane. A visit there would offer a sailing cruise, a crocodile safari or one could take a ferry and explore the islands by hopping on and off.

And, last but not least, is Port Douglas in Queensland about 70 km north of Cairns where I'd make a visit to Cape Tribulation. It is near the Great Barrier Reef (which I have already visited but would do so again), and the Daintree Rainforest.

Establish where you would like to go for your next trip, then plan how you will travel and how long you would need for a trip of this type. After establishing where and how, next determine if, i.e.: a tour would take you to places of your choice and if not, how else would you travel? What would be the cost? Is it within budget and time constraints? And after that, just count the days until you go.

Christchurch and Our Introduction to New Zealand

New Zealand, the land of the Kiwi bird, of sheep and cattle, mountains, rivers and lakes and beautiful natural scenery. And Christchurch, the city that two years ago suffered two serious earthquakes with at least 10,000 follow-up tremors.

When we arrived in Christchurch, we found it to be much cooler than anticipated especially after Australia but our welcome was warm. On our first night there, we went to the home of a New Zealand family for a typical New Zealand home-cooked dinner. Our meal consisted of roasted lamb with mint sauce, vegetables from their garden and the traditional dessert of Pavlova, a meringue base filled with whipped cream and covered with kiwi, peaches and strawberries.

They, like many others, had sustained some earthquake damage to their home although it was not extensive because they lived on the outskirts of town. The downtown section was the hardest hit. Even the hotel where we stayed had some cracks in the walls and scaffolding around some of the outside areas.

Christchurch, founded in July of 1856 is the second largest city in New Zealand with a population of 367,700 people. On our second day there, we were driven around to see the earthquake damage in the downtown area which, in some areas, was almost decimated. Many of the buildings had to be demolished while others, particularly those that have heritage value, are still being worked on in an effort to preserve them. Many have container cars placed in front of the facades to prevent them from crumbling or toppling over. It was a sad sight to see. During the second earthquake, 185 people lost their lives. A memorial in the downtown area had been established to honour them.

Because of the extensive damage, many restaurants had been closed, as well as hotels and tourist attractions. As a result, there were fewer places in Christchurch that we could visit and explore. A group of us took a cab to the Botanical Gardens and walked around. I admired many of the towering, majestic trees, some reportedly more than 120 years old. The flowers were still colourfully prominent and there didn't appear to be any major earthquake damage to this area. The Botanical Garden was begun by the planting of a solitary oak tree in 1863. It is bordered on three sides by Hagley Park and in some areas you can see the gently flowing Avon River beside it.

We also visited the Canterbury Museum established in 1867 but not opened to the public until 1882. The museum specializes in early Maori, European settlement and Antarctic exploration and was extremely interesting to look through. Over the years the building has been added to several times. During the recent eqrthquake it did sustain some minor damage to its facade. However, it is suspected that there was not as much damage as might have been were it not for the earthquake upgrading that was done during the latest addition.

Following our visit to the museum, we decided to walk back to our hotel, a distance of about three miles. It was quite pleasant when we started out but turned into a rainpour halfway there. However, it was fairly warm so once we were wet, it wasn't really that unpleasant. And after a stop at a Chinese restaurant for a nice hot bowl of soup, we were ready to go again. Well, almost.

From Christchurch we caught the Tranz Alpine Express for the scenic trip through the Southern Alps to Franz Josef Glacier Region. We chugged our way up picturesque mountains, across trestles with rivers flowing far below, passed scenic lakes, saw the lush greenness of valleys where sheep and cattle grazed and enjoyed the wonders of this fabulous nature. The Tranz Alpine Express, operating since the end of 1987, has an on-board cafe, large windows for excellent viewing and an open air carriage in the middle of the train to even better see the passing scenery. After about three hours of travelling, we bid adieu to our train life and again boarded the coach bus for the remainder of our trip to Franz Josef Glacier Region where we spent the night before heading to Queenstown.

The landscape between Franz Josef and Queenstown was stunning with rainforest vistas, the twisting coastline, magnificent waterfalls and gorgeous, green glacial lakes. One particularly impressive lake was Hawea. At its longest point it is 35 km and at its deepest, it is 392 metres. But most striking is its natural beauty and spectacular colour.

So far New Zealand has not been a disappointment. It surpasses any of my expectations with its beautiful and diverse scenery and for its abundance of mountains, rivers, waterfalls and lakes. Our next stop is Queenstown. Can it get any better than what we have seen so far?

Sydney, Australia - A City of History and Charm

Sydney is a beautiful city. It is also a city full of history, being the first area where English ships landed and where those on board, mainly convicts, carved out a place for themselves in this new land. It is now a fun-loving city with much to see and do.

Sydney Cove, adjacent to the Rocks, is the first site that the English convict ships landed in 1788. During the 18th and 19th centuries, for over eighty years, more than 165,000 convicts were transported to this area in Australia. The last convicts arrived in 1868. But things began to change with the advent of the gold rush between 1851 and 1871. In 1852 alone, 370,000 gold seekers arrived in Australia looking for riches and by 1871, there were 1.7 million people in this new world. As of 2009, Sydney's population was 4.6 million people.

Over the years, the settlement was slowly established through many challenges and hard work and gradually thrived. But eventually this area became frequented by sailors, prostitues and gangs and became known as a slum by the 1870's.

This area of Sydney, the Rocks, is now a popular tourist area with many historical buildings and pubs and much of it has been renovated. Mrs. Macquarie's chair is a popular tourist spot next to the Royal Botanical Garden and with a view of the Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge. Mrs. Macquarie, wife of the then Governor, was reported to have sat there regularly watching for English ships to come into the harbour. Eventually her 'chair' was carved into the sandstone by the convicts in 1810. During our first evening in Sydney, we walked to the Rocks and had dinner at one of the historic pubs.

On another excursion, we went to Darling Harbour and took a tour of the Opera House. Planning for this structure initially began in the late 1940's with construction beginning in 1958. But it was not completed and open to the public until 1973. From there we were also able to get an excellent view of the Harbour Bridge with some brave souls walking along the upper arch high above the water. (Four people from our group decided to give it a try also). This impressive bridge opened in 1932 and is still the largest steel arch bridge in the world.

There are many things to do and see in Sydney. We got a guided tour of the well-known Sydney Aquarium, went to an opal factory where we heard the story about the history of opals and to the Koala Park where we saw koalas, a wombat, emus, dingos, an assortment of indigenous birds and large kangaroos. There are many parks, beaches and museums in Sydney. Other places to visit are Queen Victoria Building, St. Mary's Cathedral, Government House, Chinatown, Sydney's Wild Life Zoo, Cadman's Cottage at the Rocks and a chance to take the Manly scenic walkway.

We also got an opportuny to try an Aussie pie which we had heard so much about. It was delicious and I'm glad we didn't leave Australia before we had a chance to try it. Unable to go up to the Summit earlier, (a rotating restaurant), we regretted leaving it to the last because we were unable to do so later. It would have given us an excellent view of the entire city.

On our last evening in Sydney, we went on a harbour cruise, complete with dinner and champagne and said goodbye from the water, to this beautiful city. The design of the Opera House is a marvel and interesting to see from a true waterfront vantage point. We also got a unique view of the Harbour Bridge as we sailed beneath it. It was a lovely evening to enjoy new friends, the harbour and the natural beauty that is Sydney.

A Visit to Cairns, Australia

Cairns is the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef and the Rainforest. It is lush, green and tropical, a welcome relief from our recent visit to the Outback. Devoid of the flies that had previously harassed us, we sat back and enjoyed our visit.

Cairns was more humid than hot. The hotel where we were staying was like a southern plantation situated on the edge of the rainforest. At night, behind the hotel there was a large pond, or possibly it was a swamp, and we could hear the musical songs of frogs, crickets and other creatures from the rainforest. We stood and listened for a while to enjoy nature's recital - an unusual orchestra for those of us who are normally surrounded instead by the sounds of the hustle and bustle of the human kind.

Excitedly we boarded a catamaran for a two hour trip out to the floating dock at the outer Great Barrier Reef. With a typhoon threatening a day or so off land, the waters were extremely rough resulting in about half of the passengers on board being sick, including some of the staff. I was fortunate that my equilibrium was in complete sync with the rocking, lurching boat. When we arrived, underwater scooters were unloaded, scuba and snorkelling gear was prepared for use and a wonderful lunch was served to those who felt well enough to partake of it.

After lunch some chose the scuba and snorkelling options while others took the submersible where we could go down and view the reef and the fish with no chance of getting wet. Surprised and somewhat disappointed, I expected the reef to be much more colourful than it was. I also thought there would be more varied fish as well as ones that were more colourful than what we saw. However, in spite of my expectations and what I didn't see, there are reportedly 30 species of whales, dolphins and porpoises in the Great Barrier Reef, 1,500 fish species, 17 species of sea snakes, 6 species of sea turtles, 25 species of shark, stingray and skates and 9 species of seahorse. There are estimated to be 2,900 reefs in the Coral Sea of which the Great Barrier Reef is part with 400 coral species which are all living organisms. There are also 500 species of seaweed and 15 species of sea grass in the reef system. Saltwater crocodiles live in mangrove and salt marshes near the reef. In spite of not seeing what I expected to see, the excursion was a wonderful experience.

We later took the Skyrail, a cable car system over the rainforest above Barron Gorge National Park. We travelled from Kuranda to the suburbs of Cairns, a distance of 7.5 km of cableway stopping at two rainforest stations. One stop was Barron Falls station where we walked along boardwalks leading to three of the fall's lookouts. In some areas we barely skimmed the tree tops while in other areas we were high above them. In most places the foliage was so thick we couldn't see the trunks of the trees. The Skyrail cable cars began operation in 1995 amid controversy over potential damage to the rainforest's ecosystem.

Cairns was officially founded in 1876 although in 1770 James Cook mapped the future site of the town calling it Trinity Bay. It is 1,700 km from Brisbane and 2,700 km from Sydney. It is a tropical climate with monsoon season during the months of November to May and dry season from June to October. We were fortunate that we experienced no rain while we were there in March. This lovely city has a population of approximately 153,000; is laid back and unpretentious. Besides tourism, sugar cane, bananas and coffee are grown on reclaimed land that had once been mangroves. As well as what we saw, there is a lagoon to visit, the botanical garden, Trinity Beach, the historical society museum, the opportunity to take a harbour cruise or go on the Gulflander-Kuranda Scenic Railway, take the ocean road to Port Douglas by car or explore one of the 200 walking trails.

A city with many things to do and see, a pleasant, warm climate, lush, green surroundings and with welcome arms extended, it is a place I would return to for another visit. Unfortunately, the time we were there didn't allow for all I would've liked to see.

Ayer's Rock in Central Australia

Ayer's Rock, with its mystery and beauty of changing colours from sunrise to sunset, was our next stop in Central Australia. Although Ayer's Rock was the main attraction, there were other things to see in this vast area.

Driving toward Ayer's Rock, in the Outback, we passed Konna Mountain. It has been crystalized since the ice age although the area surrounding it has since eroded. We also visited the Olgas, meaning 'many heads', which is another rock formation jutting out from the desert dunes and otherwise relatively flat landscape. In one area we walked into a box canyon to experience the immenseness of the rock and to see the hidden pool. The heat was too much for many, as high as 44 degrees, and they turned back. However, it didn't in any way discourage the determination of the flies to torment us.

And finally we could see the amazing Ayer's Rock in the distance. At that time of the day it was a mauve colour. We drove through Kata Tijuta National Park which is the home of possums, different types of wallabies, the Woma python, various types of frogs, bush turkey, emus, lizards, camels, fox, rabbits and many different species of reptile, many being poisonous snakes, and spiders. We saw none of these. However, we didn't venture off the well-defined paths either.

From there we drove into the town itself, although it could hardly be described as such. It is mainly a cluster of hotels and other sleeping accommodations, a very small shopping area and a few restaurants. The main reason for anyone to be there is the mystery and the beauty of the rock itself. There is even a campground but after hearing the story about the dingo carrying off a baby, it would not appeal to me and especially when you also consider the many varieties of poisonous snakes in the area.

Ayer's Rock, called Uluru by the Avangu, an Aboriginal tribe in the area, is 450 km by road from Alice Springs. It was discovered in 1873 and is 2,831 feet above sea level. But more interesting is the fact that two thirds of the rock exists below the ground's surface. There is a 1.6 km climb to the top but our tour guide said it would probably be the last year this would be allowed beause the rock is considered sacred. In some areas there are ancient ancestral paintings on the rock faces. However, the ones we saw have almost disappeared because of time and the elements. The Aboriginals consider there to be five seasons in the area. We must have arrived in the hottest one.

The main attraction to Ayre's Rock is the changing of colours from pinks, mauves, rusts, orange and reds from sunrise through to sunset. Taking a camel ride at sunrise, I have to admit that I didn't notice the change in the colour of the rock so much as the beautiful sunrise as we rode for about an hour through the desert dunes. Both the camel ride and the sunrise were magnificent in spite of the infernal flies. Riding a camel is definitely an experience. It is one I would repeat agaqin even though I very quickly became aware of the bones I didn't remember I had or even knew were part of my body.

And in the evening we watched the sun set over Ayer's Rock while we enjoyed a glass of champagne. In this case also, both the sunset and champagne were enjoyable. By taking a picture every ten or fifteen minutes, we could see the changes in the colours of the rock. Apparently the colours were not as intense as they often are because, although it was hot and sunny, there was a slight cloud cover over the rock itself.

On the following day on our way to the airport for our flight to Cairns, we drove the circumference of Ayre's Rock. It is 9.4 km around. Stopping periodically we could see some of the markings on the rock which, from the distance, looks to be relatively smooth. There are numerous canyons within the rock walls which, with a guide, can be explored. Exploring the entire circumference as well as the canyons would extend the walk to about 35 km.

Although the area of Ayre's Rock was interesting and informative, I was looking forward to our trip to Cairns and all the sights and experiences that area promised us. Expecially the promise of no flies.

Alice Springs in the Outback of Australia

Stepping off the plane onto the tarmac at Alice Springs, the heat hit us like a blast furnace, seeming to make the air around us thick and difficult to breath. And flies hovered around our faces. They were everywhere in the Outback, a constant irritation.

From the airport we drove into the little town of Alice Springs for lunch. And I do mean little; it was mostly comprised of one main street and a small but fairly new and modern mall. Most of us didn't walk around too much, instead finding an air conditioned spot to have our lunch and wait until it was time to get back onto the air conditioned bus again.

A brief repreave from the heat and then we went to visit the first telegraph station in the Outback, built in 1860. It was named after the station master's wife. No doubt it was an effort to help her forget her rather deplorable living conditions and surroundings. It wouldn't have worked for me but she did stay and raised several children in this very isolated area. Another story goes that the kitchen staff had to constantly whistle so the station master would know they were not eating any food they shouldn't be. The reason for this was because all the supplies had to be brought in on the backs of camels from Darwin - and they were only able to do it once a year. It was a hard life for all of those living at the telegraph station because of the heat, flies, lack of water and the constant fear of being attacked by the Aboriginals.

From there we checked into our hotel, thankfully with air conditioning, surprisingly luxurious, and with a lovely pool. We hadn't expected it in the middle of such desolate surroundings. A dip in the pool was heaven before we headed out to a dinner in the bush with a stop first to see some rock wallabies. They were small, friendly creatures with front paws not much bigger than my thumb nail. They ate out of our hands and held onto us tightly if they thought we might take their food away.

We also met some Aboriginal children and teenagers from the Ulpma, Wongkatjeri and Urrundie tribes who played drums and danced. A few were training to be medicine people and several said their tribes drank warm kangaroo blood. One group of Aboriginals, the Walpiri, said they didn't become Australian citizens until 1967. On our visit into the bush, they cooked a kangaroo tail over an open fire and we were given an opportunity to try this delicacy as well as other types of bush food. I found the kangaroo tail to be very grisly and greasy, however, in other less exotic meal situations, those who tried the meat said it was really quite good. We were also given the opporunity to try and throw a non-returnable boomerang which is the type used for wounding and not killing.

Our actual dinner in the bush was a choice of either beef or chicken and spotted dog (not of the real dog variety but a loaf/cake filled with raisins). This was cooked in a heavy pot under a thick layer of hot embers. It was served warm with butter and honey which would have been delicious if we didn't have to wrestle it away from the swarms of flies before we could get it into our mouths. After dinner, lights were switched off and we turned our attention to the sky overhead. It was a beauty that most of us surrounded by pollution and city lights don't usually get to see. The stars were like diamonds twinkling on a black cloth of velvet and the milky way floated across the heavens. Later we were entertain with songs of Australia.

There are no schools for the children of the Outback because they live so far apart at the numerous sheep and cattle stations. However, schooling is compulsory until they are sixteen years old so they are taught online, hosted by the School of the Air. They have regular hours and must be tutored by someone who is trained to do so. It is usually a parent who does this. They also meet twice a year so they can get together with other children. There also is no hospital in Alice Springs. But there are a group of doctors who are called the Royal Flying Doctor Service. Although it happens in few other places, in the Outback, doctors still do make house calls.

I felt that the Outback was harsh, lacking in amenities, overrun by flies and hot beyond belief, but it is loved by those who call it home. I was glad, however, to have had the opportunity to visit, to learn about the area, and to see the art of the Aboriginal people with their talent for colour and design. But it is not a place I would choose to live.

Melbourne in Ozzieland

After thirty hours of travelling time on a recent trip, we arrived in Melbourne; a city clean in appearance and from what we could see when we first arrived, with interesting areas to explore. After our welcome-to-the-city-and-meet-your-fellow-travellers dinner, we had an early night excitedly looking forward to our tour of the city the following morning.

On our tour around Melbourne, we saw St. Paul's Cathedral, St. Michael's Church and the Parliament Buildings which were opened in 1901. They are now a world heritage site across from the Windsor Hotel. Inside the hotel, we took pictures of the unbelievable luxury of the interior - the lobby, the dining room and the banquet rooms. One could only imagine the luxury of the rooms and how deep in your pocket you'd have to reach to be able to stay there.

We drove by the Flinders Street Railway Station and the Clock Tower, both historical sites of interest. This railway station, completed in 1909, is the length of two city blocks and has a row of clocks above the entrance. We also drove past Federation Square, the old Melbourne Jail which at one time housed Ned Kelly who was considered to be the equivilent to our Jessie James; the Christian Chapel which was built in 1865, past the University of Melbourne, the courts which go back to the 1850's, the old post office, the Regent Theatre and the Treasury Building. We also saw the statue of Sister Mary McCullum, a well-known and respected nun in Australia; the magnificent stadium designed like a soccer ball, and the Shrine of Remembrance for the WWI veterans and later those Australians who fought in other wars who were also included.

We visited Fitzroy Park where we saw Cook's cottage, the gardens and Conservatory, a tree with whimsical carvings on it and a memorial to John F. Kennedy. Some of us were then dropped off at the Queen Victoria Market where we browsed and had a lunch of pizza and people-watched. Some of the shops have been there since the 1870's and it is rumoured there are still bones from a long-ago cemetery buried beneath some of the buildings. There you will find the cheapest souvenirs in all of Australia, with prices that can be negotiated. When it was almost time to meet our ride back to the hotel, we discovered there were several different entertainment venues and a more interesting selection of food than our choice of pizza was.

From the hotel a few of us walked to the Young & Jackson Hotel which is the oldest pub in all of Melbourne, built in 1860. As you enter through doors that people have been going through for over one hundred and fifty years, you can smell the accumulation of age and years that are the history of this landmark. Surrounded by dark wood panelling, beautifully renovated, we drank our first Australian beer. We later went upstairs to visit Chloe's Rooms with her life-size painting gracing the wall as it has done for over a century.

And from there we hopped onto the famous green trams which we were told, because it was a weekend, would not be busy. Unfortunately, everyone else was told the same thing because it was pretty much standing room only. Having just arrived, we were click-happy with our cameras and disappointed that we saw little of the city from this mode of transportation.

Later eight of us met in the lobby of the hotel to go for dinner. We crossed a bridge over the Yarra River near our hotel and close to the entrance of the Flinders Street Railway Station. Walking along the river, we stopped to peruse the menus outside of the numerous restaurants. We discovered that meals in Australia are quite expensive. Having walked for some time, four of our group decided they no longer wanted to continue and stopped where the meals were a minimum of $35 to $40 each, without a glass of wine. The other four of us, no doubt more thrifty by nature, decided to continue walking beside the river. It was a beautiful evening and a lovely walk so we continued until we reached the Casino where we ended up eating at the food court. Not necessary because it was the cheapest place but because by this time we were ravenous and our stomachs would have been in full-out revolt had we taken another step further.

With varying degrees of enjoyment for our dinners, we continued walking along the river, taking pictures as the sun set on this lovely city, before finally crossing another of the many bridges. With some unintended detours, we finally arrived back at our hotel.

Our visit to Melbourne was to be short but most of us felt we had seen some of the high points, a few of the historical attractions and heard a condensed history of this attractive city. It is second only in size to Sydney with over four million people. Founded in 1835, it is considered the Garden City and cultural capital of Australia.