Visiting Seoul, South Korea

Almost a year ago I visited the city of Seoul in South Korea for the wedding of one of my sons to a Korean girl. I had previously met most of my future daughter-in-law's family but had never been to Korea before.

Exploring Seoul, the largest city in South Korea was not difficult. In a city of almost twelve million, one would not expect this to be the case. The Metro system is easy to navigate and taxis are incredibly reasonable and easy to get. Most drivers, however, do not speak English or it is extremely limited. But with a map of the city or an address, there is no difficulty. I had no trouble travelling around in this way and the drivers were very helpful and friendly. As a woman on my own, I did not feel uncomfortable or nervous travelling in the city by myself.

In one instance, when I was going to the home of my future daughter-in-law, there were many apartment buildings and the taxi driver drove around until he was sure he had the correct address. Another time when I was visiting one of the many palaces, the driver pulled in so I wouldn't have to cross the street and pointed over to where the entrance was.

On a visit to the National Folklore Museum, while I was looking around, a young girl came up and asked if I would like her to show me around. Although there was some English on the signage, she told me more background history than I would have known otherwise.

After discovering that I was visiting the city to attend the wedding of my son to a Korean girl, she took a special interest and showed me the entire process of life from ancient times to the present. It was very useful in helping me understand Korean life and customs as well as their wedding traditions and I found it to be an extremely interesting place to visit.

My next stop was the Gyeonbokgung Palace which means 'Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven'. Construction of the original palace began in 1395 representing the sovereignty of the Joseon Dynasty. Razed by invasions of the Japanese between 1592 and 1598, it was not rebuilt until 1868. At that time about 500 buildings were erected on over forty hectares. I was overwhelmed by the immenseness of the grounds and the many buildings. Planning to meet my son there, I realized the futility of ever finding him. We did eventually meet at the entrance/exit gates where we watched the unique process of the changing of the guards ceremony.

Our next stop was Deokgung Palace which is also part of the Joseon Dynasty. The back of the building had secret passageways to the Russian Emissary which exist to this day. My son and I were able to catch the changing of the guards here as well. At both palaces the guards wear traditional clothing but the attire and the ceremonies are quite different at each of the palaces.

Later, being joined by my future daughter-in-law, we made our way to Insadong Street. It is the focal point of Korean traditional culture, folk crafts and traditional clothing as well as the center for artists, craftsmen and art lovers alike. Art events and festivals are held along this 700 meter long street and vehicles are not permitted during weekends. The shops were interesting and tea was offered for tasting at one shop which was a wonderful respite on an extremely cold winter day.

On another day, two companions and myself went to Myeongdong Market. With its countless shops, stores and stalls, it apparently is one of the busiest places in Seoul. Shopping malls are interspersed with street stalls selling inexpensive items with prices that can be negotiated. But even the shops offer reasonable prices. A companion, who had lost her glasses, bought two pairs for a total of just over $200, including an eye examination and for a total wait time of under one hour. It is considered the ultimate shopping experience in Seoul.

Other attractions in Seoul are Namdaemun Market which is the oldest and largest in all of Korea dating back to 1414 and the Jongmyo Shrine dedicated to the deceased kings and queens of the Joseon Dynasty. Built in 1394, the Japanese burned it down during the Seven Year War. It was later rebuilt in 1601. It still has the original tablets in memory of past kings and queens which had been hidden by peasants.

We stayed at a hotel fairly central to many of the tourist attractions and if not a good walk, at least not a long taxi ride. Surrounded by an assortment of eating establishments, the rooms were clean and wifi was available.

We were in South Korea in the middle of January which was extremely cold. But according to my daughter-in-law, May and September are the best months to visit Seoul. So I tucked that useful bit of information away to remember for any visits in the future.

Korean Wedding Customs

How do Korean weddings differ from traditional North American weddings? The differences between the two cultures becomes something that is necessary to consider for those who are entering into mixed marriages.

In my own family, two of my sons have mixed marriages. In some cases the two cultures meld and combine their different customs and in other cases, it will be strictly one way or the other. How is the best way to handle this sometimes delicate situation? Is it a decision made by the wedding couple or one made by the parents?

It is often the Asian parents who decide on whether the wedding will be American or one with their own customs since they have more strongly held traditions than do most North Americans. This may not be the case if they live in North America. But if the parents still live in Korea, they will be considerably more attached to their customs.

The ancient Korean customs of the groom travelling to the bride's house on horseback before the wedding and of the bride being transported back to the groom's house by sedan chair to live three days after the wedding, obviously is not done anymore. Nowadays there is a mix of Korean customs with some of the Western wedding traditions incorporated as was the case with my one son and daughter-in-law.

In times past also, the bride as well as the bride and groom's mothers wore hanboks consisting of a short jacket, long skirt and pantaloons. And the groom wore loose fitting trousers with a long colorful overcoat known as a gwanbok with a black hat. Nowadays it is more common for the bride and groom to wear the traditional western bridal clothes of white wedding gown for the bride and tuxedo for the groom as my son and daughter-in-law did. However, Korean customs were observed to the degree that the bride's mother and myself both wore the traditional hanboks.

Other Korean customs often observed is the exchange of gifts between the bride and groom prior to the wedding; gifts given by the bride's family to the significant kin of the groom; gifts of cash from the groom's kin to the bride, and gifts from the bride's family to the groom's friends. There is also an exchange of food and wine between both families, ritual silk given by the bride to the groom's significant kin and a gift box delivered to the bride's house the night before the wedding by friends of the groom. These customs were not observed in our case.

The most common gift for the couple is cash. Weddings are usually large with often the bride and groom not knowing many of their guests. The Korean goal is to have as many people at the wedding as possible to let it be known that the wedding is of import. Often the cash wedding gifts given at the wedding are given to the parents to help pay for the wedding. The exception to this are cash wedding gifts from close friends given directly to the wedding couple.

Following the official wedding festivities, there may be another ceremony called Pyebaek for the family members only. It is a time when the bride formally greets her new parents-in-law and food and drink are offered. This is the time the bride and groom will wear the traditional Korean wedding clothes as my son and daughter-in-law did. The custom also says that the groom will piggy-back his mother and his wife around which symbolizes his acceptance of his obligations to both of them. My son piggy-backed his wife but I declined. At this time the groom's family give cash in envelopes to the bride. The same is repeated with the bride's parents. Also both sets of parents throw chestnuts and dates into a decorated apron held by the bride and groom which they will catch. The amount of chestnuts they catch signifies the girl children they will have and the dates signify boy children.

If the Korean family have lived in the United States or Canada for some time, and particularly if their offspring is North American born, chances are the wedding will include more of the western customs and the bride and groom themselves will make the majority of the decisions regarding their wedding. This was the case with my other son and daughter-in-law.

Europe - The Best Way to Explore Your Destinations

Our main modes of transportation consisted of the Eurorail, TGV, Metro and walking. But, as with every other aspect of trip planning, it is important to research because there are numerous options available.

There is the choice of whether to get first or second class train tickets. There really is a difference between the two although in the end, both get you to where you want to go. With first class the seats are very comfortable with lots of leg room and ample space for luggage, as well as drinks are offered by passing porters. We chose this option because of the length of time we would be spending on Eurorail while travelling through three different countries.

However, from Paris to Switzerland, we chose the TGV train system which travels at 320 km hour and often faster. This cut our train travel for this leg of our journey from over six hours to about three hours. We chose not to make reservations which would have been an additional cost, deciding to take our chances on not having to wait. Because we left early for the train station, and because the trains leave hourly, we were fortunate in not having a long wait time.

While in Switzerland we were able to use our Eurorail pass. If we had not had this pass, we would've had to purchase Swiss passes for transportation while in Switzerland. Our Eurorail pass also gave us passage on the ferries in both Lucerne and Interlacken as well as the cogwheel trains we took up Rigi Kulm Mountain and Jungfrauloch Mountain in Switzerland. When we purchased our rail passes, based on the fact that we would be travelling to three countries, we got the three country, six day pass which was ideal for our requirements although as it turned out, the two country pass would've been sufficient since the TGV had to be purchased separately. The cost of the pass is determined by the number of countries you visit and the number of days you are using your pass. Purchasing Eurorail passes outside of Europe is cheaper. The open tour bus in Rome, however, was an additional cost. When travelling by train, we had to try and beware of what the station before our stop was so we could get our luggage and be ready to leave the train when it came in to the station.

While in Paris and Rome, we used the Metro system of transportation or by walking to our destinations. Both Metro systems were quite easy to use and in Paris in particular, almost every station had people available to answer questions. Also in Paris, the route you needed to take to get to the trail level you wanted was very clearly marked on the walls at each fork. While in Rome we only used their Metro system one day and had clear instructions on which line we needed to take and the station we had to get off. In both Paris and Rome Metro systems, the next station is shown overhead on a flashing sign so you are given ample warning.

The only taxi we took while in Europe was to the airport to catch our flights home. We could have taken a shuttle or bus to the train station which, between connections, would have taken several hours. For an early morning flight, and with the difficulty of having luggage to worry about, the cost of a taxi was well worth the extra money spent.

Before travelling, make sure to research, plan and organize so that things will go as smoothly as possible and time isn't wasted trying to get information when that time could be spent travelling and getting to your point of destination more quickly. This is especially true when your travel time is limited as ours was - three countries, eight cities and other specific areas in just two weeks.

Travelling Europe - The Hostel Way

On our first trip to Europe we decided to stay in hostels, mainly for economic reasons. When planning our trip, there were many things to consider before booking our accommodations.

These considerations were: cost, location, wifi accessibility and availability to transit and the major attractions. We also wanted a room that included breakfast, an ensuite bathroom, if possible, and a room with same sex occupancy but not a dorm. Because there were three of us this sometimes presented a problem and we had to sacrifice some of our desired requirements. One of these was ensuite bathroom which proved not to be particularly bad, and in some cases preferable, because often the separate bathrooms were larger than the ones in the room. Breakfast was the next thing on our list that we were willing to give up. Availability to transit was the most important even though we walked many miles each day while touring the cities we visited.

We began our search through hostels.com about five months before our planned departure. This was necessary because of our specific requirements and even then, in some cases, were unable to find what we wanted. Specifically, there were not many rooms for a group of three, same gender. While we were in Interlacken, Switzerland, we had a room for four and on our first night there were just the three of us. But on our second evening we returned to the hostel to find a partially clad man shaving at the sink in the room. Initially we thought we had the wrong room and, apologizing left, only to discover that he was to be our new room mate. My companions and I felt somewhat uncomfortable with this new development, particularly since we, by unspoken consideration for each other, confined ourselves and our things to our own bed areas. In the obviously short time the new arrival had been an occupant in our room, he had managed to disburse himself freely throughout the entire small room. Fortunately, there was another room available to him and we paid for the fourth occupancy to our room. In hindsight it was all quite humorous but I'm sure somewhat embarrassing for the poor man.

When doing our search for hostels, we read visitor reviews for each one but often these were more confusing than helpful because of the extremely diverse opinions of those who had stayed. Often reviews ran from extremely favourable to highly negative. As a result, a lot of our decisions were based on what seemed to be a dominant impression of the reviews. But like most things, reviews are subjective in most cases rather than objective.

Our hostel in the colourful Montmartre district of Paris was conveniently located to Metro and a short ride to the Champs-Elysses where many of the major attractions are located. It did have an ensuite bathroom and although very small, was convenient. Breakfasts consisted of cereal, croissants, fruit, coffee and juiice which was quite sufficient to jump-start our energy levels for our busy days. The age of the majority of visitors was in the twenties to early thirties range with few being older. We found this to be the case in most places we stayed except in Italy where there were more older visitors in the hostels. But everyone was always friendly regardless of age or language spoken.

In Lucerne we stayed at a lovely clean hostel for three with a separate bathroom across the hall. It didn't include breakfast but met all of our other requirements. Being close to transit in this case was not a requirement because the town was quite small and everything was within walking distance, the trains, ferry and most attractions. In Interlacken, although the city was much larger, the trains and ferry were very close and although they did not serve breakfast, they did have convenient kitchen facilities.

In Venice, Italy, because my daughter-in-law is Korean, she made arrangements for us to stay at a Korean hostel which was on one of the canals. Transportation was not a consideration in Venice because the main way of getting around is by walking. They did serve a breakfast which was a rather large feast, Korean style. The hostel in Florence was a room for four which we shared with an older lady from England who said she had travelled considerably, always staying in hostels. She said she quite enjoyed her experiences with hostel stays. Breakfast and dinner was served for a nominal fee, bathrooms were down the hall and it met all of our other requirements.

Our hostel in Rome was probably the best. Although they did serve a very basic breakfast, we were gone by then but they did have kitchen facilities where we could prepare anything we wanted for ourselves. We were within walking distance from Metro and within walking distance of some of the attractions, i.e.: the Colosseum, Paladine Hill and Trevi Fountain, although admittedly, they were extremely long walks.

When booking stays at hostels, it is important to note whether linen and towels are included. In some places they are and in others, rental is required. I brought my own towel but in most of the places these things were either included or were a very nominal charge to rent. Some places require that payment for rooms must be cash and other places will accept credit cards. We also did a thorough online search of the areas we were looking in to see what was available regarding restaurants and, was there a curfew, was it a noisy neighbourhood and was there a staff member on site at all times.

We were very fortunate with the hostels we chose, finding them all to be clean, comfortable and for the most part, meeting our requirements. It is certainly an inexpensive option when travelling not only for the young but for older travellers and families as well. I would certainly choose a hostel adventure again in the future.

The City of Pompeii and Positano, Italy

Pompeii, buried under thirteen to twenty feet of ash and pumice when Mount Vesuvieus erupted in 79AD, had suffered little deterioration. However, now that two thirds of it has been excavated, deterioration has accelerated because of the air and weather conditions, water being the primary culprit.

Our tour, although taken on a day of extreme heat, was fascinating. Many of the buildings that we saw were amazingly well preserved, such as the Forum, the baths, some of the houses, the amphitheatre, and a swimming pool. There are streets that still exist, paved with large cobble stones with houses and shops on both sides. There were areas specifically for the nobility, the middle class and the peasants with even a designated brothel area.

A lot is known about Pompeii, considered a major city at the time, from the well preserved frescoes and graffiti on many of the walls. There have been casts made in plaster of people who were presevered beneath the ash. The discovery of Pompeii gave proof to the world that there was an ancient Roman civilization that was extremely advanced for that time period.

Pompeii was not discovered until 1738 and excavation has been going on periodically since then. The ara is extensive and would take several days to really see it all although a few of the areas have been closed to tourists due to the fragile state of some of the buildings. When we were there near the end of June, there was a heat wave and with few trees, we were at the mercy of the sun. After touring the area for about three hours, we sat under the few trees available and had lunch before getting back onto the bus to resume the rest of our day trip.

Our next stop was Positano on the Amalfi Coast. Passing beautiful scenery, we finally stopped and the tour guide told us we would be walking down to the beach. From the look-out platform, we gazed down at a beach, far below, where the houses were small and the boats were nearly invisible. Walk? But walk we did down extremely narrow winding stairs that had buildings on both sides. Finally after about half an hour of walking, the stairs came to an end. We rested before proceeding the rest of the way down a narrow winding lane. Too narrow for cars to travel, there were beautiful little shops on each side selling fabulous items. The pavement was so hot that my feet felt burned through the soles of my shoes so when we reached the beach, I walked into the ocean without bothering to take my shoes off and let the cool, refreshing water beat against my legs.

Positano is a beautiful, sheltered area with restaurants, shops and hotels and, with a bar on the beach like an ice cream stand. We got a drink, found a shady spot to sit, and never did a drink taste so good.

Positano was a port in medieval times, later falling on hard times. Over the course of years, it became a fishing village. But in the 1950's, tourists began the trek to Positano after John Steinbeck published an essay about this village clinging stubbornly to the side of a mountain. 'Under the Tuscan Sun' was also filmed there and Mick Jagger and Keith Richards wrote their song, 'Midnight Rambler' while there on vacation. After visiting Positano, I could certainly see that it's a place to come to get creativity flowing.

We caught a ferry from Positano which took us to Sorrento for pizza and then the bus back to Rome, a three hour trip. We didn't get back until 10:00 p.m., a long and hot fifteen hour day. It was the last night we had in Rome. I packed my luggage for the final time for an early start in the morning to the airport. I thoroughly enjoyed my European vacation but as always, it was nice to be going home.

Rome, Italy and the Vatican City

The Vatican City is a walled city within the city of Rome, referred to as the smallest country in the world. This area is ruled by the Bishop of Rome, the Pope. Within this small area are the Vatican Museums, St. Peter's Basilica, Apostolic Palace, the Pope's residence and 57 acres of gardens, decorated with fountains and sculptures.

On our second day in Rome, we left early to go to the Vatican Museums hoping to avoid a long line-up. However, arriving an hour before they opened, we were far from the first people to arrive. But the line did move quickly once the doors were opened.

The museums were founded between 1775 and 1799. There are thirteen museums in the complex consisting of a huge collection of art amassed by the Roman Catholic Church throughout the years which includes classical sculptures and masterpieces of the Renaissance. It is believed that the sculpture of Laocoon, purchased five hundred years ago, was the beginning of the public opening of the Museums. Laocoon is the priest who, according to history, predicted Ulysses' use of the Trojan Horse. They celebrated their five hundred year anniversary in October, 2006.

Besides paintings, sculptures and antiquities, there is the red marble papal throne, tombstones, inscriptions, the Gallery of Maps and many, many frescoes. There is the Gregorian Egyptian with Egyptian statues and mummies from around 1,000 BC, the Vatican Pinacoteca, a newer museum, which wasn't opened until 1932, featuring paintings from the 12th to 19th centuries, the Chapel of Beato Angelico, the four rooms known as the Stanze of Raphael featuring works by that artist, the Borgia Apartment, the Collection of Modern Religious Art, the Christian, Profane and Missionary-Ethnological Museum, the Chariot Room, the Immaculate Conception and Sobieski Rooms, Etruscan Museum, Gallery of the Candelabra, Apartment of Pius, and other areas having collections of ancient Roman and Greek art with replicas of Greek statues. One museum contains mainly tapestries and mosaics and there are galleries of busts, amazing paintings and carved Roman baths as well as the Vatican Courtyards. Most of the ceilings are covered with paintings and decorated with marble and inlay is often on the floors. There are more than 70,000 pieces of art on exhibit with another 50,000 pieces preserved in vaults and storerooms.

The entire museum is an incredible stroll through history. But the highlight is, without a doubt, the Sistine Chapel with the ceiling painted by Michelangelo. Although he considered himself to be a sculptor and was not happy to paint the Sistine Chapel, it is considered one of his best works. He worked on it between 1508 and 1512. His painting of The Last Judgment on the alter wall was done while he was in his sixties.

It was so crowded when we were in the area of the Sistine Chapel that if someone fainted, they'd never hit the floor. Security people were everywhere ensuring that people were quiet. As you exit this area, you go down one of the world's most famous staircases, the Simonetti Staircase. Made of bronze, it is decorated with the papal coat of arms.

It is impossible to see everything in one day and I'm sure there were many areas we missed entirely. One reviewer said it could take two or even twenty visits to the museums to really see all there is to enjoy.

From the museums you can walk around the outside wall and go to St. Peter's Basilica. The original basilica fell into disrepair and a new one was built and consecrated by the pope in 1626. This church is enormous with 45 alters and is the most well-known work of Renaissance architecture. St. Peter's Basilica is incredibly opulent; its interior decorated with marble, sculptures, artwork and gilding. It holds the tombs of 91 popes, dignitaries and that of Saint Peter, one of the twelve apostles of Jesus and the first Pope of Rome. St. Peter's tomb, according to legend, is buried beneath the high alter.

After leaving the Vatican City, we continued our stroll around Rome. It is a city that you want to keep exploring to see as much as you can. But eventually it was time to return to our accommodations. It had been another long and very interesting day.

On our third day in Rome, we planned to take an all-day tour to Pompeii so we would be seeing nothing more in this city where there is so much to see and enjoy. Rome has something for every taste with its art, culture and history.

Rome, Italy - The City of Culture and History

Rome, referred to by ancient poets as the Eternal City, is located on the Tiber River. It was founded in 753BC and, along with Florence, was considered one of the major centers of the Renaissance. Although the date for Rome's founding is considered to be much later, there is archeological evidence of human occupation from between 10,000 to 14,000 years ago. On our trip to Rome, we were impressed by the old buildings and partial structures, evidence of their long history.

On our first day there, we set out with a map, a vague idea where many of the attractions were and, of what we wanted to see. We saw partial structures, some appearing to be still in the excavating stages, old buildings, fountains, churches and statues. One was a statue of Julius Caesar in a pose one could imagine him being in when, on the Ides of March, he uttered his final words, 'Et tu, Brute?'

Arriving at the Colosseum, we were amazed at its size but shouldn't have been. It once accommodated more than 55,000 spectators who came to watch fights between gladiators and wild animals or sometimes between those who were prisoners. Construction was begun in 72AD and completed in 80AD. There were once eighty entrances, many still quite evident. The ruined portion, according to history, was damaged in an earthquake in 847. You can go inside the Colosseum, however we didn't. (It went on the ever-growing list for my next visit.) The beauty and resilience of these incredibly old structures and buildings continued to amaze me as we looked around. On the same grounds is the Arch of Consontine, built in 315AD, another work of art.

Further along in our explorations of Rome, we came to Palatine Hill. Surrounded by a high metal fence, archeologists are still excavating the ruins of what is believed to be the beginnings of the city. We were too late to go inside and unfortunately, the gates were closed for the evening. But we were able to see quite a lot through the fence. As early evening descended, we crossed the Tiber River, seeing the partial remnants of an old bridge. It seemed that everywhere we looked there were remnants and evidence of antiquity and Rome's continual determination to unearth its history.

Eventually, as our feet became weary, we boarded an open tour bus and travelled the city seeing many other sights. With the early evening upon us, we saw a different Rome through the glow of the city's lights. At one point we saw the Pantheon, built in 118AD. It was converted into a church in 609 and now holds the tombs of Raphael and several Italian kings. Amazingly, the marble floor is still the original. The last stop of the night was Trevi Fountain which was as far as the bus was going. This fountain, completed in 1762 is exquisite, a masterpiece of design. The statue of Neptune of the Sea riding a chariot in the shape of a shell, is pulled by two sea horses. It is the focal point of the fountain with other statues surrounding the display. Although it was getting late, it was crowded when we were there, which apparently is not unusual. As we walked back to the guest house, we realized it was too late for dinner so we stopped along the way to pick up some fruit and drinks. We were getting an early start the following morning for the Vatican City.

Pisa and Florence, Italy

After taking the train from Venice, we made a quick stop in Pisa to see the Leaning Tower before going on to Florence. Our first view of the tower was one of amazement. According to history, the tilt of the tower began shortly after construction started in 1173 and continued for most of the 344 years it took to build. The tower was finally completed in 1319 but was halted several times during construction, once for one hundred years, because of the tilt. Currently the tower is 183.27 feet high on the low side and 186.02 feet tall on the high side. There are about 294 steps to the top with the stairs wrapping around in a spiral formation on the inner side of the walls. Renovation work has been done on the foundation in recent years and it is estimated that it will be good for another two hundred years at least. However, in spite of the work done, neither of us were inclined to make the climb to the top. It looked like it would be a long way down and the tilt was significant.

The Leaning Tower was another one of those sites that, although having seen many pictures previously, is quite unbelievable anyway. It almost defies the laws of gravity. The other buildings in the square, the Cathedral and Baptistry, were very impressive in their architecture and although picturesque, it was the tower that held everyone's attention. The tower is the third oldest structure in Pisa's Cathedral Square. After getting the usual corny touristy pictures of holding up the tower, we headed back to the train station to continue our trip to Florence.

Our accommodation for our one night stay in Florence was a room in a hostel. We were very impressed with the set-up of the hostel and the statues displayed in the lower court yard. Also impressive was the fact that both breakfast and dinner were available at extremely reasonable prices for those who were staying there. Our trip of Europe unfortunately, has been a case of a lot of tasting the icing but not having time to eat the cake. But it has opened up our eyes to what can be seen when you travel and what a wonderful experience it is.

Florence is considered the birthplace of the Renaissance and has been called the Athens of the Middle Ages. It is a city steeped in history and lures you down its streets with its architectural wonders. Shortly after our arrival, we took a guided walking tour. Throughout our short tour, our guide pointed out many buildings, indicating whether their influence was Renaissance, medieval, Baroque or that of the Medici family.

The first place we visited was the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore built in Renaissance style architecture. Built in 1296, the facade of green, pink and white marble was not completed until 1436. Our guide explained that lack of financial resources was the reason for this. Another place we visited was the Plazza della Signoria which is in the center of the historic area featuring an open air sculpture exhibit. There are many squares in Florence and many are like outdoor museums with beautiful works of art. Also, the Ponte Vecchio, built in 1345 was Florence's first bridge aqcross the Arno River and the only bridge surviving from medieval times.

She also took us to, what she claimed, was the best Gelato shop in all of Florence. Most who got one seemed to agree with her. Besides there being many cafes and restaurants, it is also considered to have some of the best shopping in all of Europe. She said that the city is the place to come to see art by Michelangelo.

The Uffizi Gallery is a placed that should not be missed having only masterpieces and works of art collected by kings and other royalty. This includes such artists as Michelangelo, Rembrandt, Goya, Bellini, Leonardo Da Vinci and Botticelli. The gallery, built in 1560, has art dating from the 13th century.

At the end of the tour, our guide left us in one of the many squares, letting us find our way back to the hostel ourselves. This gave us the opportunity to explore more of Florence in the short time we had available.

When we head off again, we will be going to Rome for a three night stay and a little more time to explore that city.

The Magic of Venice, Italy

Venice, our first stop in Italy, greeted us with hailstones the size of dimes which bounced off the cobbled stones like bouncing balls in a children's playground. But before we got settled into our accommodations, the hailstones had melted and the narrow streets were sizzling with the heat from the blazing sun. So with hats, sunscreen and maps in hand, we set off to explore the most unique of places we had yet to visit.

It was very fortunate we had the map because Venice is not easy to find your way around and with so many canals, markets, mysterious winding streets and dead-end alleys, we were often lost. At one point, after having located almost every dead-end alley in Venice, my daughter-in-law and I followed a woman who, walking briskly, seemed to know her way around. But eventually we lost her in the labyrinth of narrow alleyways as well. However, being lost in Venice is not a catastrophe because wherever you go, there are wonderful things to see.

Venice is part of a large group of islands and is connected by canals and bridges in some cases or by taking the Venezia ferries. Standing on the Rialto Bridge, a marvel of architecture in the heart of Venice, you can overlook the main water thoroughfare. The Grand Canal is surrounded by Renaissance palaces with gondolas transporting people through the various canals or to the other islands. Gondolas are expensive, however, so we used the ferry system to get around.

Whether you are lost or exploring, you will probably find the Palazzo Ducale or Doge's Palace, a Gothic masterpiece which has been the seat of government for centuries. The exterior is white linestone and pink marble with medieval carvings. Another place is Saint Mark's Basilica, the architecture so stunning it almost takes your breath away, as does most of Venice's buildings. It is the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Venice. Some of the marble and carvings are much older than the building itself, having been brought from elsewhere. Also another stop will likely be the Madonna dell'Orto, a church of equal beauty. Built in the mid 14th century, the facade was done between 1460 and 1464. And as you wander, there is the anticipation of what you're going to find next. The name Venice could be synonymous with beauty because wherever we went, the buildings were beautiful, each one seeming to surpass the previous one.

We took a trip on the Venezia ferry system to the island of Murano to see the Venetian glass. The glass is famous for its color, beauty and detail. We were very surprised to find many pieces of this art used in outdoor landscaping. In one display there was a Venetian glass garden of flowers and in another, various brightly colored birds sitting on the top of an archway and in yet another, an abstract free form design. They also have jewellery, much of it made from the Venetian glass, as well as other art.

We also visited Burano Island, a quieter island with fewer tourists. What was unusual about this island was that its canals were lined with very colorful and picturesque buildings. We also noticed that the buildings were better maintained than the main island seemed to be. There were also many chances to purchase items with the beautiful and unique lace work that is made on this island.

The thing I noticed first when we began exploring Venice on our arrival were the buildings, especially those along the canals, with their crumbling plaster exterior walls. In those cases there seemed to be no effort whatsoever made to maintain them. Possibly they are intended to be part of the charm accentuating the fact that Venice is old but one only has to look at the style of architecture to know that Venice has been there for thousands of years.

Our accommodation was on a canal near one of the many bridges that crosses them. It was also near one of the many shopping districts which included an assortment of eateries and other shops. There are no cars in Venice so travel is either by walking or by taking canal transportation. Either way is enjoyable because there is much to see.

Unfortunately, our visit was far too short and it was again time to move on to our next adventure.

Interlacken, Switzerland

The town of Interlacken in Switzerland is situated between the two Alpine lakes of Brienz and Thun with the Aare River flowing through the town connecting the two lakes. Interlacken is a popular destination for those who are interested in skydiving, hang gliding, paragliding, skiing and hiking, being surrounded by some of the highest mountains in all of Europe. We weren't there for any of those things though. We had come to see more of Switzerland and the Swiss Alps.

We arrived by train from Lucerne in the early afternoon. Quickly depositing our luggage, we caught the ferry on Lake Thun and went to visit the small town of Thun, seeing other small towns or settlements, castles and beautiful mountain visitas along the way.

There is a castle in Thun that is often open to the public but unfortunately, it wasn't on this day so we strolled around the town soaking up the ambiance and culture. Thun is different than either Lucerne or Interlacken, not seeming to us to be quite so European, but nice just the same. Finding a restaurant, we stayed to have dinner before taking the ferry back to Interlacken.

The next day we took the train to Jungfrauloch Mountain. At 13,642 feet, it is advertised as being the Top of Europe, and literally is the highest point in all of Europe. On the way up the mountain, there are three brief stops, two having observations windows for viewing the breathtaking beauty of the Swiss Mountains. The train chugs its way passed meadows and countryside and into a six km tunnel travelling through the Eiger Mountain before emerging at Jungfrauloch, Europe's highest train station. At the top, on a clear day, one can see as far as the Vosgas Mountains in France and the Black Forest in Germany.

After leaving the train we went up to the restaurant, post office and souvenir shop where we had a quick lunch of spicy noodles, and then proceeded along a corridor to the Ice Palace which is nineteen meters below the surface. Caverns have been dug into the glacier which has been expanded upon periodically over the years. The ice sculptures include such things as bears, seals, igloos and an assortment of other animals. The entire cavern is ice, including the floor.

Leaving the Ice Palace, we followed the Sphinx Tunnel to an elevator and went up 107 meters to an observation deck where we could see the surrounding mountains covered in snow, and a 23 km river of ice which will eventually find its way to the Mediterranean. We went outside so as to be able to walk a little higher on this vast mountain, partly to say we had, and partly to reach the rise where the Swiss flag was perched, blowing briskly in the howling wind. It was extremely cold and sunglasses were definitely a necessity because of the glare from the sun on the snow and ice. We were fortunate that the stunning views were unbroken by clouds and bad weather. Never having been to such soaring heights on a mountain before, where the glaciers and snow are smooth, barren of any human footprints, it was hard to believe how truly beautiful the expanse of mountains were.

Returning by train to Interlacken, our fingers slowly thawed and our breathing became normal again. (We had been told that at that height, the air would be thin; two of us were able to feel the difference in our breathing while we were at the high elevation.) After arriving back, we explored the town a little.

Our accommodation while in Interlacken was a hostel beside the Aare River. It was clean, quite comfortable and we were within a short walk to both the train station and the ferry. Although German is the primary language spoken in this small town, we had no problems with communication. In fact in most places we've travelled, people have spoken enough English that we have had no difficulties.

When it was time to leave, we all agreed that Switzerland was a country to come back to again. But once more, we were taking our leave and would be travelling into Italy, the next phase of our European holiday.

Lucerne, Switzerland

Lucerne, in Central Switzerland, straddles the Reuss River, which flows into Lake Lucerne, Arriving in a deluge of rain, we grabbed a taxi which wasn't our general mode of transportation. However, it wasn't long before the rain dried up, the sun came out and I looked around at this city, surrounded by the Swiss Alps, and felt I had come home.

Dropping luggage off, we set out to explore, walking through narrow cobbled streets. Eventually we ended up at the Chapel Bridge, a covered bridge, 669 feet long and built in 1333. Inside the bridge are a series of paintings depicting Lucerne's history. Part way across there is a Water Tower that, at one time had been used for protection, and at other times as a prison. Being a lover of covered bridges, we next discovered the Mill Bridge which zigzags across the river. Built in 1408, a chapel was later built in the middle of it in 1568.

What impressed us as we explored the city was the cleanliness and the beauty. Flowers were evident wherever we went, in planters and baskets and the entire length of the Chapel Bridge had baskets of flowers hanging over the rail. There were buildings covered in paintings, churches to see, Swiss architecture to admire and their culture to absorb.

Another discovery we made in our explorations was the Lion Monument, carved into a rock face. It had been carved to honor those Swiss Gards massacred in 1792 at Tuileries Palace. Having planned to spend only one night in this lovely area, we next checked out some shops and were puzzled when we realized every one offered cow bells for sale.

The following day we took the ferry to Weggis, a nice relaxing trip where we could see many, what looked to be castles on the hills, as we floated past. Once in Weggis, another town of beauty, we walked to where we could catch the cogwheel train to make our way up Mt. Rigi Kulm. The trip up was, as I had imagined the Swiss Alps might be, if not more lovely. As the last stop we got out. It was biting cold at the top and the wind was blowing but the view was unbelievable. We followed paths to go even higher on the mountain top where we could enjoy and absorb the fantastic views. As we climbed, the mystery of the cow bells was explained when we heard the sounds of many bells floating throughout the mountains, seeming to surround us with their magical music. We had timed it well, a day in June, with no low-hanging clouds to obstruct our view of all the grandeur nature had to offer. After walking for a while at the top of the mountain, we returned to take another cogwheel train down three stops and caught a cable car to the bottom. The view on this was stunning as well but the trip was far too short.

Mr. Rigi Kulm is known as the Queen of the Mountains and is 1,797.5 meters high. It offers more than a cogwheel train ride and a cable car trip. Many do hike it as well as ski it in the winter. We saw many hikers setting off with their walking sticks and backpacks, far more adventurous than either of us felt inclined to be. After reaching the bottom of the mountain, we returned to the ferry for our trip back to Lucerne. Mount Pilatus, overlooking Lucerne, is another mountain where one can take a cogwheel trip to the top. Having limited time, however, we contented ourselves with going to Mt. Rigi Kulm.

Picking up something for dinner, we returned to the deck on the roof where we were staying. Looking down we could see the Reuss River rushing by below us on its way to Lucerne Lake, where swans paddle along the shores.

In Lucerne, people were friendly and helpful, communication was not difficult, our accommodation was central to everything we wanted to see, and between trains, ferries and shoe leather, getting around was easy. I loved the city and wished we could have stayed longer. But it was time to move on.

The Essence of Switzerland

There is the feeling of lightness and of troubles removed when you first arrive in Switzerland. The air is fresher, the grass greener and the sky bluer; it is nature redefined. In the towns we visited there was no bustling, chaotic traffic or stressed-out people. There were smiling faces and friendly natures and a feeling of being welcomed.

Situated between the Swiss Alps, the Swiss Plateau and the Jura Mountains, Swiss German is the predominant language spoken (Germany is to their north), with French and Italian also spoken. These countries also border Switzerland. Music and dance are popular with the alphorn and yodeling being loved by all. Skiing, snowboarding, mountaineering and hiking are all popular in Switzerland also.

They are involved in peace building around the world and have not been in an international war since 1815. They have a strong commitment to neutrality and they are a peaceful, prosperous and stable people. Chocolate has been made in Switzerland since the 18th century and they are considered to be one of the largest consumers of it. They are also known for their watch making skills.

There is diversity in landscape and climate. There are more than 1500 lakes in this small country. In the middle area, which is about 30% of the land, it is hilly, partly forested with some open pastures usually with grazing herds or garden fields. The Swiss Alps takes up about 60% of the land area. In general, the climate is temperate with autumn being the driest season and the winter season receiving less precipitation than during the summer months.

The biggest cities of Zurich and Geneva are in the middle area. Berne and Basel are also fairely large cities. Lucerne, where we visited, is considered a city but definitely one of the smaller ones wheras Interlacken is a town. Switzerland is predominantly an urban country as the largest part of the country is the Swiss Alps where the population is small, as are the towns, if there are any.

With a country that is so peaceful and stable, it is no wonder that the people are that way as well. So visiting Switzerland where the people are so friendly and laid-back, was definitely a pleasure.

Paris, The City of Lights

Paris, the City of Lights, is a city most will fall in love with or at the very least will have an opinion about. Some areas of this city date from around 4200 BC so history abounds and like every other tourist visiting the city, we were anxious to see its many attractions.

On our first evening in Paris, we took a cruise down the Seine to orientate ourselves. Once we began to see the many historical buildings we passed, we were glad that we had researched some of the history of each of the places we would be visiting.

The Louvre Museum, our first stop, had originally been a royal palace. It is now the world's most famous museum. This museum originated with a collection begun in the 16th century by King Francis I. Over the years the collection grew and in 1793, it was opened to the public. There are three wings, each housing different collections.

The Sully Wing holds a collection of French paintings, an enormous collection of Egyptian antiquities, artifacts and sculptures, a Greek collection and some remnants of the medieval castle of Louvre. This was the first wing I ventured into and having made the decision not to go on a tour was able to stand at the exhibits that interested me the most, for as long as I wanted to enjoy them. In the Richelieu Wing there are paintings from the Middle Ages to the 19th centuring including decorative art and sculptures. It was no less impressive than the Sully Wing. In the Denon Wing is the Mona Lisa plus other paintings of renown artists, antiquities and artifacts. The Mona Lisa was somewhat of a surprise being much smaller than either of us had expected it to be.

We spent hours in this fabulous museum following our interests from display to display, room to room and wing to wing, the art amazing and the statues beyond belief. Even the floors and soaring ceilings were spellbinding with paintings, carvings and inlays. With over one million works of art, only about 35,000 are ever on display at any one time.

The Eiffel Tower, rising 300 meters above where we stood, was completed in 1889. It was built for the World Exhibition in celebration of the French Reveolution. At the time, many protested that it didn't fit in with Paris' architecture but it is now currently seen as the symbol of the City of Lights. And it is no wonder. We saw it lit up on our first night in Paris. It was beautiful at night and dramatically visual during the day. The next day we went back with the intention of going to the top but a few days previously, rumors had told us, there had been a bomb scare and one of the elevators was not working. Line-ups wound across the grounds like slithering serpents slowly making their way towards the entrance. Having only a limited amount of time, to spend in Paris, and many places we wanted to see, we decided to come back again. As it turned out, we will have to go up on another trip to Paris. But even looking up at this immense structure when standing on the ground beneath it is awe-inspiring and was worth the trip.

The Notre Dame Cathedral is located on a small island in the Seine in the heart of the city. Begun in 1163, it was not completed until 1345 because of renovations and additions. It has two 226 foot towers and a 295 foot spire. Decorated outside with statues, massive doors and stunning architecture, it was worth waiting in line-up so we could admire it.

Inside the cathedral is quite as amazing with beautiful, massive stained glass windows, statues and candles glowing everywhere. There is a hush while the crowd slowly moves throughout the huge cathedral as most who visited seemed to be as much in awe as we were.

The Palais de Tuileries was built by Catherine de Medici after the death of her husband in 1559. Large, by I suspect most standards, she built it in the Italian style to remind her of her native Tuscany. Tuileries Gardens, surrounding the palais with its large pond and fountain, has many dramatic statues. There are walking paths between rows of grass, shrubbery and flowers but I was most impressed with the statues.

Another attraction, the Arc de Triomphe, commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 wasn't completed until 1836. It is fifty meters tall, adorned with carvings of battles and at the top of the arch thirty shields are displayed each signifying Napoleon's successful battles. It is located at the end of the Champs-Elysees, in the middle of a square where twelve streets converge. Trying to cross this busy thoroughfare would be suicide but fortunately there is an underpass to the monument. Once there, to reach the viewing platform, there is no elevator but 234 steps make it a heart-pumping hike to the top.

Other attractions briefly visited were the Luxembourg Gardens in the heart of the Left Bank, with ponds, fountains, gardens and sculptures. We picked up a sandwich and had our lunch while sitting on the chairs provided around the huge pond. Established in 1625, these gardens were a joy to visit, quiet, tranquil and away from the rush of traffic that is most of Paris.

Another interesting area briefly visited was the Montmartre district where a walk up the hill on cobbled streets will bring you to the Basilica of Sacre-Coeur. There you better have excellent lung capacity because the stairs leading up to it are many. A multitude of shops line the streets where we bought souvenirs for family and friends. This area is considered to be the most historic neighborhood in Paris. We also did a quick tour past the Sorbonne University and the Pantheon.

Unfortunately, the clock was ticking and our time in Paris was running out. Having to catch the train for our next adventure, we left with a promise to return again to explore all the other areas of this City of Lights that we had not been able to see.

Enjoying Your First Visit to Paris

Never been to Paris before? When initially planning your trip, first determine what it is you will want to see when you get there. Perhaps do a google map search and a virtual tour of the streets so that when you arrive, Paris will seem like an old and trusted friend. You will then easily be able to determine how to get from your hotel to all of the attractions.

How will you get to the attractions? Walk? The virtual walking tour will show you the shortest and most picturesque way to go. But there is also the Metro which is incredibly easy to use, as well as the Botabus which travels on the Seine River. Travelling this way allows for eight stops - at the Eiffel Tower, St. Germain des Pres, Le Louvre, Musee de Orsay, Notre Dame Cathedral, Hotel de Villa and on the Champs-Elysses close to the Grand and Petit Palais. It also includes 58 stops on the open tour bus.

Do you want to check out the Left Bank of the Seine? The Left Bank is on the southern side of the Seine River. It is the artistic area of the city and was once home to such famous writers as Picasso, Matisse and Hemmingway. Here you will find the popular Montparnasse which is still a haven for artists. Also on the Left Bank is the Latin Quarter, the Sorbonne University, the Eiffel Tower, du Jardin Luxembourg Gardens, Pantheon, Paris Catacombes, the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Pres as well as inexpensive cafes and night clubs.

Or perhaps the Right Bank is where you will be drawn to explore. This side of the river is where the majority of Paris' big businesses and most of the large tourist attractions are. They include the Louvre Museum, Arc de Triomphe, Tuileries Gardens, the Montmartre neighbourhood, Sacre Coeur Basilica, Moulin Rouge, the Bastille Opera and the Champse-Elysses.

It is highly advisable to obtain a map in order to be able to orient yourself with the layout of the city. Another great way is to take one of the many river cruises down the Seine. We did one of the evening cruises so we wuld be able to see the lights of the city at night. The Eiffel Tower was breathtaking. However, a river cruise taken during the day probably would've been a better way of actually orientating ourselves but for sheer beauty alone, the night cruise was great.

Before going to Paris, we did our homework and were able to explore the city on our own for the most part. But there are some tours worth taking. One such trip is a tour of Versailles. It gives a view of the palace, the Hall of Mirrors, the King's and Queen's apartments and the gardens.

When looking for a hotel, we made our decision based on both proximity to the majority of the main attractions and to easily accessed metro stations. Although price was part of the decision as well. In the Monmartre neighbourhood, where we eventually decided to stay, we were fairly close to two metro stations, although one was a heart-pumping jaunt up a hill to get to our hotel. We later discovered that the other station was closer and a much easier walk.

Cafes and eateries are everywhere with many different kinds of food. Within a walk of our hotel were two Vietnamese restaurants, and Italian and the usual Parisienne eateries, all offering larger servings than I could possibly eat.

The best thing any traveller can do before visiting the City of Lights with its many attractions is to prepare yourself before you go - where the attractions are, how to get to them, if travelling on the Metro system, which lines to take and where the stations are, and the particulars of each attraction as well as entrance fees and operating hours.

And once you are there, you will enjoy all that Paris has to offer because you will have come prepared.

The People of Paris

You can talk to ten different people and get ten different opinions on how they found the people of Paris to be on their visit. In most cases, whether in Paris or at home, how you approach people will make a difference on their reaction to you. Generally I have found, if you are friendly, they will be also. And on my visit, I found that people often took the initiative to help when they suspected help was needed. Although, in one case, it was definitely not to my advantage.

In this case, I have to admit that my almost first contact with a Parisienne was not how I would have wished it to be. On my arrival at the airport, as I stood looking for signs directing me to the shuttle/train that would take me to the Metro which would take me to my hotel, a man came up to me to offer his services. I was initially impressed to find someone so friendly and helpful in a city full of strangers. When I told him what I was looking for, he took me to the machine and put in his own credit card and got me a ticket and then pointed me to where I had to go after helping me up a flight of stairs with my luggage. Then, when few people were around, he told me the ticket was 35 Euros, which being the totally green tourist that I was, and having no idea how much a ticket would cost, I'm embarrassed to say that I gave him. I must have been flashing bright neon green like a fresh-faced teenager when he spotted me. We had been warned about the pick pockets that proliferate the city but not about the blantant scammers. Being of the age I am, I should have been somewhat more aware than the gullible person I proved myself to be.

Although we had many warnings before our trip about pick pockets, we had no problems although we did keep our purses close to our bodies. My daughter-in-law did see a pick pocket in action and she said the man whose pocket was picked had no idea. These Paris pick-pocketers are fast and exceedingly competent at this activity.

In another case, again no doubt looking lost, a man came up and looking at the address where I wanted to go, directed me to a train. But because of the language difficulties we were encountering, he took me to someone else who spoke some English. After a discussion with the lady, she said he apparently thought I wanted to go to the Opera House which was no where near my destination. She very kindly gave me correct directions.

I found this to be the case in most instances - at the Metro and train stations people were extremely helpful as most were on the street when directions were required. Servers in restaurants were helpful also and some, finding out where we came from, said, 'Oh Vancouver, it is considered the best place in the world to live'. In one case a waiter even got a dictionary so he could better understand what we were saying.

One day while travelling on the Metro in Paris, in a crowd of people, I was the last person to get on. I had managed to put my luggage onto the train and then stepped up myself when the doors closed with me caught in the middle of them. There is no sensor on the doors to warn the driver of any mishaps but fortunately, people being who they were, four men jumped up and with two on each side managed to pry the doors open. My daughter-in-law then grabbed my arm and pulled me into the train. After several heart-felt thank you's to my saviours, I stood, hanging tightly onto the pole, with my heart pounding loudly in my ears and my face now a brilliant red. I was definitely embarrassed and the occupants of the train probably thought, 'crazy tourist'.

But people in Paris are basically like people everywhere and a smile there, like anywhere, goes a long way in producing friendly relationships. Especially when that smile is served along with a friendly 'Merci'.

Smuggler's Cove - On the Sunshine Coast, B.C.

The Tranquility and Mystery That is Smuggler's Cove

There's tranquility in the calm blue waters mirroring clouds that drift like disappearing smoke. The water softly creeps into nooks and crannies, its only sound the swish of ripples lapping at pebbles on the nearby beach. An eagle in a distant tree watches for his next dinner while birds flutter nearby, their voices raised in cheerful song. It is a place so tranquil that my chest constricts with the beauty of it.

But there is mystery also behind every outcropping of rocks that rise from the waters protecting what can't be seen. Clusters of small islands huddle like stepping stones near the edge of the distant shore. What is nature hiding? What had it hidden before we discovered its tranquility and beauty? What is the mystery of Smuggler's Cove?

Popular folklore, considered fact by some and rumor by others, is that the bay was used by Larry 'Pig Iron' Kelly to smuggle Chinese labourers from Canada into the United States. Having completed their work on the Canadian Pacific Railway, these Chinese labourers were no longer considered a necessary commodity. Charging one hundred dollars for every man he transported, the Captain gave strict orders that no sound was to be made while they were in the bay or the offending party would be dropped to the bottom of the ocean.

The cove was also believed by many to be where bootleg liquor, produced on neighbouring Texada Island was taken on board to be smuggled into the United States during the prohibition era.

Whether these stories are true or false, the fact remains that visitors to Smuggler's Cove will feel surrounded by mystery within these sheltered waters. One can almost imagine a ship hovering behind a rock outcropping waiting for its next contraband pick-up. Situated on the south side of the Sechelt Peninsula, the cove is protected by offshore islands and exploration of these islands may offer other mysteries for the adventuresome explorer. It is also a popular area for kayakers because of the calm waters.

Smuggler's Cove is now a 182 hectare Provincial Marine Park with a 3.5 km round trip trail. There is much to explore and see - rocky shorelines, lagoons and tidal pools. Looking south there is a view of Thormanby Island and Texada Island as well as a spectacular view of Georgia Strait and Welcome Passage. Smuggler's Cove is 16 km north of Sechelt along the Sunshine Coast Highway. After parking in the lot, there is an approximately one km easy stroll into Smuggler's Cove but believe me, it well worth the venture.

Othello Tunnels - In the Coquihalla Canyon

For visitors to British Columbia and particularly for those who are travelling the Coquihalla Highway, don't miss a stop at the Othello Tunnels. These tunnels are located in the most rugged section of the Coquihalla Canyon. At a time when there was limited technology, tunnels were created through three solid granite mountain cliffs and bridges built above a canyon where the river rushes three hundred feet below. It is a terrain so rugged as to seem nearly impossible even with what we now know. The wonder of it is breathtaking and is well worth the stop.

This magnificent and unbelievable engineering feat was designed by engineer Andrew McCullough and was completed between 1911 - 1918. Sadly many immigrants lost their lives during the building of these tunnels and trestles which were deemed necessary to gain passage to the coast. Once British Columbia became part of Canada in 1871, it was necessary to link eastern Canada to the Pacific Coast. The mountains of British Columbia were a challenge. The work was done completely by hand with some help from horse drawn scrapers and black powder. Cliff ladders, suspension bridges and ropes assisted the workers in building what, even today, is considered an engineering marvel.

The old CPR Kettle Valley Railway once ran through this magnificent piece of history and through some of the most beautiful scenery there is in the province. The tunnels, also known as the Quintette Tunnels, were named by Andrew McCullough who was an avid fan of Shakespeare. He used the names of Lear, Jessica, Portia, Iagy, Romeo and Juliet to name the stations on the Coquihalla route. The Kettle Valley Railway closed in 1959 following a severe slide in the area. In May of 1986, the tunnels and surrounding area became a provincial recreation area.

After walking through the tunnels and traversing bridges, you can continue following the old railroad bed which links to the historic Hope-Nicola Cattle Trail. Many visitors take their bikes to travel the path left by a railway that is no long available to us. When walking through the tunnels, it is necessary to have a flashlight.

There is overnight camping, a day parking area and picnic tables available. The park is closed between November and March each year because of the possibility of falling rocks and ice.

Unfortunately the pictures I have do not properly show the amazing tunnels and trestles.

Barnston Island - An Island Lost in Time

When visiting British Columbia or the Vancouver area, Barnston Island, a small island in the middle of the Fraser River, is an interesting place to visit. It is a five minute trip across Parson's Channel on an interesting mode of transportation. You can either take your car onto the 'ferry', which is a tug pushing a barge that holds about five cars and some walk-on passengers. If you choose to walk-on and take a stroll around the island, it is a 10 km jaunt with no hills. There is a parking lot for those who decide to do that.

When there, we've peered between the scattered trees and watched log booms slowly drifting by on the Fraser River. From an island that is predominantly farm land, we are able to watch industry and commerce as tugs and ships of various sizes travel the river.

At the picnic spot where we've chosen to eat our packed lunch, there is a good view of the river and of Surrey beyond, appearing to be undeveloped from where we stand. We know this is not the case because we had just taken the barge/tug across from that thriving city.

On Barnston Island sheep and horses graze in lush green pastures and snow peaked mountains are a backdrop to this comforting and welcoming scene. Dogs bark lazily in the distance and a cat meanders across the road to welcome us. Plump ripe blackberries grow abundantly beside the road ready for the picking. Native islanders wave a passing greeting to us as we walk the road beside their farms, and children smile without fear or curiosity.

On Barnston Island one takes a step back in time. Farming is a way of life existing in few other places. Neighbours are neighbours in the truest sense of the word. People care and life is home and it's a place where children can still be children.

Part of the quaint charm, the laid-back feeling and the excitement of a visit to this small island seems to come with the barge/tug mode of transportation. On this small island, don't expect to find a corner store or a take-out place because there aren't any. That is part of its charm. A visit to Barnston Island is a great day adventure and hopefully for those on Barnston Island, this seemingly idyllic way of life remains.

Crescent Beach - The Sleepy Village of Years Gone By

When visiting Vancouver and British Columbia from other areas, Crescent Beach is a good spot to put on your itinerary. Crescent Beach still harbours the tranquility and peacefulness from when Walter Blackie purchased 150 acres for $50.00 in 1871. The area, then known as Blackie's Spit was later purchased in 1906 by Charles Beecher, for whom Beecher Street and Beecher Place were named.

In 1909, the Great Northern Railway arrived, roads became more than the foot paths they had been and water transportation became a thing of the past. With improved transportation, visitors from Vancouver and New Westminster arrived at Crescent Beach with their picnic baskets and beach blankets. Development began in 1911 - it was the beginning of Crescent Beach as a summer resort.

A lodge and hotel were built, operating between 1906 and 1949. After a fire destroyed the hotel in 1949, the land lay vacant until Beecher Place was built in 1982. In the early years of the 1900's, some of the Vancouver visitors began to build summer cottages. Following this period of growth, a post office, general store, real estate office, meat, fish and produce market, a service station, a hotdog stand and ice cream counter were built.

Camp Alexandria, which currently operates as a neighbourhood house, was established in 1918 as a summer camp for disadvantaged youth and their mothers, and orphaned children. The tiny cabins still exist, and inside the main entrance are sepia-coloured pictures, like those taken from an old family album found in someone's attic.

In 1904, the Crescent Oyster Company opened providing employment for East Indian labourers and some of the local residents. The bunkhouses and company buildings were built on pilings above the high water mark. Remnants of these pilings, covered in barnacles, still exist. Wharves extended out into the deeper water; stark reminders of these are in evidence as well.

Over the years several churches were built, schools and the Royal Canadian Legion. In 1947, the Crescent Beach/Ocean Park Volunteer Fire Department was formed. To this day it remains a volunteer department.

Walking in the area, one has many reminders of Crescent Beach's long ago history. Speaking to a relative newcomer to the area, a resident of about forty years, he said there have been few changes since he's lived there.

A visitor to this area has the choice of walking on the beach or gravelled pathways or following trails into the Blackie Spit area towards the Marina. There are sailboats to watch, sandy beaches for children to play on, picnic tables, a grassy area for games, a choice of restaurants and ice cream and gelato.

Stress and the apparent necessity to hurry don't exist in this idyllic little village; smiles are an automatic response to those that hardly seem like strangers, and it's a place where there's always time for a chat.

Crescent Beach, as in the past, continues to be a popular tourist destination.

Victoria - The Capital of British Columbia

Victoria, British Columbia's capital, known as the City of Gardens, is a perfect place to visit any time of the year. Butchart Gardens is a particularly beautiful place to tour as are the Parliament Buildings.

We took time to explore the Inner Harbour, Old Town, Chinatown, James Bay, Fisherman's Wharf and Beacon Hill Park, all within Victoria's downtown core. This can be done either on foot, by double-decker bus, horse-drawn carriage or boat tours. Victoria is also home to several exceptional museums and heritage buildings.

Other attractions include the Undersea Gardens, the Wax Museum, Craigdarroch Castle, Fort Rodd Hill and Fisgard Lighthouse, Canada's first west coast lighthouse. There is also the Butterfly Garden which was a huge attraction for the children as the butterflies lit on them.

We also decided to include a whale watching expedition as part of our visit. We enjoyed it but realize that it may not be for everyone. With large waves hitting the bow of the boat, particularly after you have left the inner harbour, many may feel the adventure is not for them if they are prone to seasickness. One goes on these trips hoping to see whales but you take your chances. One of my sons went and didn't see any whales and another went and saw several from a very close vantage point. I felt, therefore, that my chances of seeing one were fifty-fifty and this did not seem like a bad percentage to me.

As we left the inner harbour, float planes lifted off not far from our boat and slowly began their climb into the clear blue sky, and fishing boats plowed through the water as they returned to the harbour. On a large outcropping of rocks near the entrance to the harbour, we saw what looked like hundreds of sea lions stretched on the rocks soaking up the afternoon sunshine. And occasionally the head of a seal popped above the surface of the water to welcome us to their ocean home before sliding quickly beneath the surface again.

As we left the shelter of the harbour, we picked up speed and headed for the open waters. The further out we went, the deeper the trough of waves became and we could hear the slap of the water beneath the hull of the boat, a steady rhythm in our ears. The sun sparkled like diamonds on the waves as they rolled towards us heading into shore. And occasonally from overhead, the sounds of seagulls greeted us.

Periodically the captain of the boat cut his engines and listened for any possible underwater sounds the whales may have been making but there were none. We did, however, eventually see some whales a little distance from us but close enough that we were able to get some iffy pictures of them. It was exciting to watch their tails and backs lift out of the water before disappearing and then repeating their performance again in a short time.

Victoria is an exciting place to visit, whether it's for a day or a week.

Butchart Gardens, Victoria, B.C.

On a recent trip to Victoria, we visited Butchart Gardens, an oasis of all that nature produces and then some. It is more than just smelling the flowers; it is an opportunity to dream of gardens and visualize how we can incorporate nature into our own lives. And it is an opportunity to relax and enjoy the beauty of the many flowers, shrubs and trees that make up this garden wonderland.

We went in early August and the gardens were resplendent in all their many colors. The sunken garden, viewed from above, took our breath away with its beauty. And when we walked beside the vibrant flowers and lush lawns, a feeling of serenity and well-being settled upon us.

The Japanese garden is apparently at its best in the fall season but when we saw it in the summer with lily pads in shallow ponds and stepping stones across a stream, surrounded by lush growth and moss-covered rocks, it was beautiful. There seemed very little that could be improved upon.

The rose garden also was lovely but our walk beside the dahlia's was breathtaking. Each dahlia different from its neighbor and each more beautiful than the one before, if that was possible. The colors ranged from vibrant to muted to multi-coloured with flower heads ranging from small to impossibly large, all sitting atop tall, narrow stalks.

A new addition to the garden is the Rose Carousel, an old-fashioned carousel featuring many animals instead of only the traditional horse. I rode an ostrich and my granddaughter beside me rode a panda bear. There was a camel, a zebra and a cat as well as other animals, all having a particular significance to the Butchart family. There were also bronze sculptures, two totem poles, fountains and the Italian garden. During the summer there are fireworks and some free entertainment and in the winter there is a Christmas display.

Jennie Butchart began developing the garden in 1904 in the area of what is now known as the sunken gardens. When her husband had excavated the last of the linestone from their property, she had the remaining rocks rearranged and brought in topsoil to begin what has become the sunken garden. Over the years the gardens grew in popularity and by 1915, it was estimated that 18,000 people had already visited it. Over the years new gardens and exhibits have been added. The gardens are open year round for the enjoyment of the many visitors who come each season to view what it offers in the way of beauty and tranqulity. It is a garden that has been passed down through the generations and continues to this day to be managed by the Butchart family.

As a nature and flower lover, it is no surprise that our visit to Butchart Gardens was, for me, a great place to go to enjoy the flowers, beauty and nature where any worries are far removed.

British Columbia's Beautiful Gulf Islands

The gulf islands, mostly in the Strait of Georgia between Vancouver Island and the mainland, are a great vacation destination. The beauty of their shorelines, lush forest, orchards, sheep farms and awe-inspiring views are unsurpassed. And the lifestyle is peaceful and relaxed with the opportunity for outdoor adventures.

Pender Island (North and South), Saltspring Island, Maine Island, Saturna, Galiano and Gabriola Island are the largest of this group of islands. Some of the smaller islands include Texada, Hornby, Denman, Quadra, Cortes, Thetis, Valdes, DeCourcey, Mudge and Lasqueti. There are approximately 200 gulf islands, some so small as to be invisible on most maps and many that are uninhabited and accessible only by private boat, or kayak.

Saltspring is the largest of the gulf islands with a population of over 10,000 year-round residents, a large population of sheep and deer, and the occasional bear. It is the most populated of all the islands and is home to many artists, musicians and sculptors.

Ganges, on Saltspring, is one of the largest towns on all of the gulf islands and is a popular destination for boaters. This busy town is where most of the businesses are located. On our visit, we stayed at a lovely bed and breakfast and watched as orcas cruised through the off-shore waters below where we were staying. Sea lions are occasional visitors to the island as well. We were surprised to discover there are eight lakes, 22 beaches and 225 farms with beautiful rolling pastures on this island.

Gabriola Island is another of the gulf islands dotting the western coastline. The rugged shoreline and sandstone beaches almost ensure that beachcombing will be a wondrous adventure. This island admittedly is my favourite and I have written further about it in this blog.

Pender Island has many high bluffs where one can enjoy the early morning sunrises and also have a good view of the orcas as they pass. Babies frolic with their mothers as they swim in what seems like a procession. Once while visiting friends there who live on one of the high bluffs, neighbors further up the beach phoned to say the orcas were on their way. At this particular time, there were so many, it took almost half an hour for them to pass. It was a wonderful sight.

Saturna has few walk-out beaches and many high bluffs. We found the views to be great but the swimming was limited. We did find a lovely beach but the climb down to it, and worse, back up didn't encourage us to go again. Maine Island has a lovely Japanese garden that is worth checking out, and Galiano is a lovely place to visit with nice beaches. On a visit to Hornby Island, we found a clean sandy beach where clams were plentiful but knowing nothing about clam digging, we looked for the largest ones. Taking a pail of these delectable creatures to the home of friends in Campbell River, they informed us that instead of the melt-in-your-mouth clams we had been anticipating, these large ones would be tough as old shoe leather and were definitely only the soup-making variety.

Each island has its own history, culture and attractions. To truly get the feel of each island, it is important to allow at least a full day or two to explore so as to see it in the way it should be seen.

Telegraph Cove - A Heritage Site of British Columbia

Telegraph Cove on Vancouver Island is a bit of a drive north Campbell River but both the quaint town and the scenery we passed on our way were well worth the drive. This heritage site, established in 1911, is a quaint boardwalk community. Once a thriving town, Telegraph Cove was originally a telegraph station. In the 1920's, the town grew to include a salmon saltery and a busy sawmill. As times changed with the coming of the Depression, lumber sales became the primary business.

During the 1940's, the population of the small town grew substantially requiring the need of bunkhouses, a community hall, a caretaker, a doctor, a post office and a school as well as family residences.

Today Telegraph Cove is still active with the arrival of fishermen, whale watchers, kayakers and those like ourselves who travel the excellent road. The scenery is inspiring as the highway slices through the surrounding mountains and towering trees.

Many of the buildings on the boardwalk are original offering visitors a glimpse into the fascinating history of the town. Walking past each building one can imagine old time music playing in the community hall and laughing voices floating over the water; men's voices drifting from the bunkhouse as they relaxed after a hard day of work, and children running along the boardwalk on a sunny day. A 1930's Dodge truck, its cab rusted, sits on the site, forgotten by some long ago owner, a further reminder of the past.

Climbing the hill above the small town, the view of open waters and passing ships was spectacular. But looking down into the sheltered bay, our thoughts returned to the present with the sight of the new marina and boat slips. The old-time music drifted away with the ocean breeze and we were back in the present.

Exploring Vancouver Island

The beauty of British Columbia's Vancouver Island is well worth an adventurous road trip to explore a small area of what this province has to offer. Among many things, the magnificent shorelines are great for kayaking, sailing, beachcombing and scuba diving, with many areas considered to be some of the best in the world.

Qualicum Beach captured our attention when we were there. Strolling along the seaside promenade, we had views of Lasqueti and Texada Islands and the snowcapped peaks of mountains on the mainland in the distance. Qualicum has a strong belief in heritage preservation and their antique shops, galleries and museum are definitely worth a stop.

Campbell River, another seaside town, is known as Canada's Salmon Fishing Capital. On a visit to the Marina, this came as no surprise - from the pier we saw masses of masts. Campbell River is also acknowledged as one of the top five scuba diving destinations in the world because of its exceptional under-water visibility, diversity of sea life and wreck sites.

'As Wild as You Like!' is a Campbell River slogan. Between skiing Mount Washington and diving the Strait of Georgia, this appears to be an apt slogan. There are trails meandering through lush forests that are worth exploring where the sounds of wildlife are a song in your ear. From the beach, we watched cruise ships, freighters, barges, sailboats, yachts and the ferry to Quadra Island travel through Discovery Passage. There is a Maritime Museum with a collection of more than 500 artifacts, some dating back 2,000 years. There is also the John Hart Dam operating at upper Campbell Lake that is worth visiting - if you're a dam lover.

Traveling the road to Gold River is also worth the effort although it is a bit of a trek. It is considered the 'Cave Capital of Canada'. Upana Caves are particularly accessible and safe for novices who enjoy the sport of spelunking. There are also many more miles of caves to be found in the area for both the novice and the more adventuresome. Not being quite that adventuresome, we didn't try this sport.

The West Coast Trail follows the contours of the rugged west coast of Vancouver Island and is one of Ucluelet's main attractions. Although we didn't go on the West Coast Trail, we did follow other trails near Ucluelet's lighthouse. At Lighthouse Park, if the day is slightly foggy, you may hear the signal warning boaters to be aware of the rocky and treacherous shoreline. The rugged shoreline, as seen from the walking trails, is typical of a lot of the western island's coastline. During winter storms the breakers can be as high as twenty feet. Ucluelet is popular for whale watching expeditions and each spring celebrates the migration of 20,000 gray whales.

Long Beach's shoreline is miles of sweeping white sand. When we were there, the surf was high and surfers were enjoying the excitement of catching a wave. There are many warnings to surfers, and others, to never turn your back on the ocean and to be especially careful around the water's edge.

We also stopped at Cathedral Grove Provincial Park located at Cameron Lake. The park is a preserved section of lush old-growth forest; many trees are 800 or more years old. Walking among these giants, we marveled at their beauty, endurance and resiliency and the power of nature.

There are many great places to visit on Vancouver Island - Victoria and Telegraph Cove I will write more on later. But a real exploration of this interesting island would take some time to complete. Another exploring trip to look forward to doing.

Harrison Hot Springs - Jewel of the Fraser Valley in B.C.

When driving from Vancouver to Harrison Hot springs in the Fraser Valley, you'll see stately Mount Baker in the distance covered in snow and, as you get closer to the village, you'll become wrapped in the arms of the surrounding mountains. If you are fortunate enough to go early in the year, you'll see the magic of trees adorned with springtime blossoms. But your adventure will have only begun.

Sixty kilometers long, Harrison Lake sits in a valley, glacier fed, its colour a fascinating deep blue and with the mountains as a contrast, it is a truly beautiful setting. On the grounds of Harrison Hot Springs Resort, the lights in the trees on a starlit evening add to the ambience of the area.

Many visitors enjoy the hot springs in both the resort and the public pool, some believing them to have healing powers. The lake itself offers sandy beaches for relaxing with a book, swimming, fishing, kayaking and boat tours. When we went on a boat tour of the lake, we saw areas that many people do not have the good fortune to see as there are few roads surrounding the lake.

For those who have come to do more than relax, there is hiking, golfing, rock hounding and the opportunity to search for some of the fossils occasionally found in the area, as well as the many nature walks available. In close proximity also are attractions such as Minter Gardens (a beautiful experience to enjoy), Hell's Gate Airtram (which will take you across the Fraser as it roars through a narrow gorge below you), Othello Tunnels (a series of four tunnels initially used by the Kettle Valley Railway), the ski resort of Hemlock Valley (which is an enjoyable place to visit summer or winter), and the nearby historic site of Kilby Farm and Museum (where more than one thousand bald eagles return each fall). As a visitor to each of these attractions, I can attest to the fact that they are all well worth checking out.

And for those who visit this fabulous area with children, there is Dinotown (a children's dinosaur town), Bridal Falls Water Park, Tugboat Junction (featuring Sasquatch caves, gold panning and train rides), and most years in the early fall, there is a popular sand sculpture competition attended by people from around the world.

In spite of the varied attractions, for many of those who visit this small village, there is mostly the allure of nature's beauty and the feeling of romance inspired by the ambience that surrounds this small town tucked away in the heart of the Fraser Valley. For some it is a honeymoon destination, a place to celebrate an anniversary or for a birthday celebration.

Most people, after having visited this delightful place, will agree that it is the place to go when a special venue is required.

The Fraser River - A Sight to See

The Fraser River, known as the largest, longest and the greatest salmon river in British Columbia, truly is a sight to see. Beginning in Mount Robson Provincial Park, this mighty, and often turbulent, river travels 1,375 km ending in the Straight of Georgia.

The river's many rapids, tumbling through narrow canyons, are enjoyed by many whitewater enthusiasts every year. But the Fraser is known primarily as a working river. Ocean-going vessels constantly traverse the Fraser River from the Fraser River Port, at the mouth of the river to Fraser Surrey Docks, thirty km from downtown Vancouver.

Watching the river between these two ports is a vacation in itself and one that can be enjoyed all year long because of our temperate weather. No one can look at the Fraser River and be bored. Large and small tugboats work night and day towing barges of wood products, log booms, the occasional houseboat and often assisting the big ships as they travel up and down the river. Many of the large ships are sleek, conjuring up imagines of faraway places, while others look like the workboats they are. Larger boats that fish the open sea and smaller ones who take their fish from the river travel back and forth, a steady procession reminding those who watch them of the importance of the river to those who live and work along its banks.

There is also a beauty to the Fraser River which changes constantly much as the weather and light does. On an early summer morning, the turbulent river can be smooth, like a mirror, reflecting an image of the Alex Fraser Bridge and fluffy white clouds onto its surface, making it look more like a calm lake than the mighty Fraser it is. On an early morning in autumn, the picture changes with fog rising from the river and the Alex Fraser Bridge appearing to be floating up through the mist, rising to greet another new day. And on a crisp winter's morning, the blue sky and shore side vegetation are reflected in the calmness of the river, a scene caught in the short space of time between the changes in the tide.

The wonders of nature can be enjoyed while watching the changes in this busy river, by glimpsing the occasional seal as he pops his head above the surface of the water and by watching eagles as they glide and soar above the water, occasionally swooping and rising with their catch from the river.

There are many areas along the Fraser where one can enjoy the river. Barnston Island, sitting in the middle of the Fraser, is one such place. The Fraser River is many things to many people; a place to fish, to enjoy the rapids or to kayak, and a place to live.

Gabriola Island - Queen of the Gulf Islands

For many years Gabriola Island has been our annual getaway destination eagerly looked forward to by the whole family. There are few other places that could surpass its beauty with sandstone beaches and interesting shorelines. When we walk the beaches, we see an abundance of starfish, jellyfish, anemones and sea otter. Seals often make their way onto the beach to sunbathe or vie for our attention.

Setting up chairs at waters edge, we enjoy the tranquility of waves lapping at our feet and the ocean sounds of seagulls and oyster catchers. There are spectacular views of ships and pleasure craft and the spirit-lifting beauty of sun glistening on gentle waves. In the evening we enjoy the breataking sunsets with the soft lights of Nanaimo and Sechelt twinkling in the distance.

There is much to see and enjoy on this enchanted island. One of the interests is False Narrows, a narrow channel running between Mudge Island and Gabriola. When walking on Brickyard Beach, as this area is called, we are still able to see the remnants of a brickyard that operated from 1895 to 1945.

We often visit Malaspina Galleries, a rare geological feature. It has been carved into the sandstone over hundreds of years of high tides. Because of places like the Galleries, Gabriola Island is a great place for nature lovers and photographers alike. There are also a number of petroglyphs in the area.

Lighthouse Point is another favourite place of mine. When we are there, we can feel the power of nature as the wind is usually brisk at this end of the island. And for a 'dyed-in-the-wool' beachcomber like me, driftwood and other wonderful surprises litter the beach brought to shore by the crashing waves.

Many of the beaches are accessible allowing for shoreline hikes when the tide is low. Drumbeg Park has a developed easy walking woodland trail that meanders through a grove of Garry Oaks, across sandstone beaches and over a grassy hill where it comes to a beautiful view of the channel and the group of islands beyond.

At Twin Beaches, the shores are sandy and the unique shells are many and interesting. There are picnic tables and, in some areas, trees shelter the sandy beach for respite from the sun.

On Saturday mornings we look forward to a visit to the Farmers' Market where crafts, homemade jams and home-grown produce is for sale. There is also the annual Sand Castle Exhibit, if you time it right, where any family or group can participate for the cost of a non-perishable food donation to the food bank as an entrance fee. It is surprising the quality of these sand castles. There is also the annual Salmon Barbeque, the annual Beat the Heat Summer Fest at Silva Bay with a non-marine boat race that is as much fun for the observers as it is for the participants, and the annual Concert on the Green.

As frequent visitors of this beautiful island, we savour the laid-back lifestyle with no expectation to rush anywhere. For us, Gabriola Island seems to have it all.

Chemainus - The Little Town That Did

Unwilling to let their town die in 1982, some of the residents came up with the idea of a giant outdoor wall mural in an attempt to breathe life into Chemainus, a small town on Vancouver Island, so it could live without the mill. The mill had kept the town alive for 120 years. They believed in the slogan, "If you say you can do it, you can" and like the Little Red Engine, "I think I can, I think I can" puffing its way to the top, Chemainus has also puffed its way to the top. It now enjoys between 400,000 to 500,000 visitors annually.

The vision was one of people who refused to be conquered. It was about determination, persistence and belief while the naysayers insisted that turning the town into an outdoor Art Gallery could not, and should not, be done. Thankfully there were people who upon hearing those words, heard only 'should' and 'could'.

We recently visited Chemainus, "The Little Town That Did" and were glad we had. In 1982 the people of Chemainus invited internationally-known artists to use the town as their canvas making it the exciting and interesting town it has now become. There are currently more than 35 murals and twelve sculptures depicting the town's history and its people.

Following the yellow and white footprints throughout the town, we passed murals relating stories of much of Chemainus' history. The Japanese community is depicted from 1900 to 1942 showing mill workers and fishermen. There are murals of the Chinese 'bull gangs' moving timber as well as murals of sailing vessels, steam trains and the workers who were the foundation of Chemainus. There are also murals showing original buildings with long ago scenes. At the entrance to Waterwheel Park, there is a mural with a working waterwheel. And not to be missed are the murals and fabulous sculptures of First Nations People.

In our stroll around the quaint little seaside town, we passed antique stores, boutiques, studios and galleries. Arriving on the beach, we enjoyed the sun and had an ice-cream cone with the unlikely flavour of 'moose tracks'. To enjoy the murals located around town, and especially if you really want to feel as if you have become part of the past, there are horse-drawn carriages.

Although we didn't take advantage of the wealth of other activities Chemainus has to offer, there is golfing, boating, fishing and hiking as well as the Chemainus Valley Museum. For a little town that thought it couldn't, it certainly did!

Barkerville - B.C.'s Popular Ghost Town

Barkerville is the gateway to the past. Thousands of visitors from around the world flock to this historic town for gold panning and a Barnard Express stagecoach ride, often riding up on the seat with the driver, as my grandson did.

It is the largest historic site in British Columbia with over 125 heritage buildings and many shops featuring Victorian-era merchandise. There are exhibits to view, gold panning demonstrations, street entertainment and costumed participants strolling around the town. There are also guided tours to Chinatown, the cemetery and the Theatre Royal. To enjoy a visit to this town from from another era will require two days if you wish to see everything. A visit to the cemetery alone will take several hours.

Travelling to Barkerville can be done on the same route taken by miners in the Cariboo gold rush days. In the late 1850's, prospectors followed the Fraser River to the creeks of the Cariboo in B.C.'s northern country as gold became more difficult to find in other areas. Billy Barker was one of those prospectors who had decided to try his luck and in 1862, struck gold.

Before long news of his gold strike spread and many thousands of miners poured into the area hoping to stake their own claims. With the arrival of fortune hunters, the town mushroomed like magic from the wilderness surrounding his site. Soon saloons, dance halls, general stores and boarding houses sprang up beside the wooden plank sidewalks and a new town was born.

Between 1862 and 1870 over one hundred thousand people had traveled the Cariboo Wagon Road to reach the gold fields of Barkerville hoping to find gold along the many creeks that meandered through the Cariboo. Built in various stages, it was 1865 before the road was completed and stagecoaches could finally travel the distance between Yale and Barkerville carrying miners and passengers to their destination in the gold rush town. The most well-known of the stagecoach lines was the Barnard Express Stagecoach Lines.

The historic cemetery in Barkerville came into being when the first person was buried on the side of a hill on July 24, 1863. Peter Gibson was laid to rest at thirty-one years of age. On a walk through this cemetery, I noticed that the average age of those buried was about 32 years. This quaint cemetery is the last resting place of some of the great and possibly not so great residents of Barkerville. Although strolling through cemeteries is not my usual form of entertainment, we found it to be very interesting. Even my grandson seemed to be quite interested.

The town managed to thrive until the 1940's when Barkerville became somewhat of a ghost town until 1957 when the B.C. provincial government began restoring and reconstructing the buildings into what they now are. At present, about one hundred buildings are original to the town with twenty buildings being reproductions. There still exists a Chinatown in Barkerville and it is now thought to be the oldest surviving Chinatown in North America.

We found that Barkerville is as interesting for children as it is for adults. It is one of those places that I would like to go back and visit again since the last time we were there, we were only able to spend one day.

*** I am sorry there are no pictures because this trip was taken before I had a digital camera.