We took the public ferry system, the vaporetto #12 to Murano and from there to Burano. The ferry, although the most economical way to travel to these islands uses every bit of space to transport people. We were crushed together so tightly that it was unnecessary to hold onto anything as the bodies around you, held you upright. And if you're short, as I am, vision is limited. However, the means of getting there certainly justified our enjoyment of what we saw.
Murano is the larger of the two islands with glass factories and gorgeous churches. Not as laid back as Burano, there is a hustle and bustle feeling to this island. Although we didn't go to the glass factory, we stopped at some of the shops where we were able to see a glass blower create an amazing masterpiece. Although we didn't realize it when we were there, bargaining is expected.
Besides the many shops and the glass factory, there is a glass museum. Murano became famous in 1291 when glass production was transferred from the city of Venice because of the fear of fires from the kilns. As we walked around the island of Murano, we were impressed with the glass sculptures that were used in outdoor landscaping in many locations.
Some of the churches are extremely old. The Chiesa di Santa Maria e Donato was rebuilt in the 12th century but with Corinthian columns dating to the 6th century and a 6th century pulpit. Some of the frescoes are 15th century. It also features a mosaic depicting the Virgin Mary. The Chiesa di San Pietro Martire church has paintings by Tintoretto, Veronese and Giovanni Bellini.
From there we went to Burano about 7 km from Venice. Burano has a population of about 5,300, with little green space. One of the attractions is the Church of San Martino with a leaning Campanile and a Museum where the Lacemaking School opened its doors in 1872. The Lacemaking School floundered over the years, eventually closing its doors in 1995. Lacemaking is an excruciatingly delicate craft requiring many hours and much patience to complete even the smallest piece. There are many shops, some with outdoor stalls selling lace work, some handmade and some by machines. On the main street of the island there are shops selling pastry and souvenirs and with restaurants and bars.
But away from the main area are small canals lined with beautiful houses painted in bright primary colours and pastels, many of them with flowers growing in window boxes. From this area you can feel the leisurely pace of life tied to the water and the coming and going of the fishing boats which, for the most part, is their livelihood. This area of Burano is very picturesque and tranquil, a welcome diversion from the crowds in Venice itself.
Many people when they visit Murano and Burano also visit the island of Torcello. However, time was limited so we didn't. Those who have visited say it is calm, green and very romantic. Very quiet, its population numbers only about sixty. In the Piazza Torcello, there is the original glass flooring, the ancient Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and the Estuario Museum. According to history, this small island was Hemmingway's stomping ground. Perhaps next time we will include it in our travel plans.
Although Murano was interesting to visit to see how glass blowing is done, and to see the amazing pieces of art that are produced in this way, I preferred the tranquility and beauty of Burano. It was definitely a photo lover's paradise.
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